Local and Lo-Cal
Savvy Dave Magrogan mainstreams the farm-to-table approach at Harvest. Diners reap the benefit.
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Crab cakes with pineapple salsa, chicken quesadillas, barbecue flank steak
From sepia-toned vases inside Harvest Seasonal Grill & Wine Bar reach several shiny, golden stalks of decorative faux wheat. The stalks, which separate the dining room from the bar, might be called the restaurant’s centerpiece, which is a little ironic, considering it’s one of the very few things there not made from natural materials. Elsewhere, there’s reclaimed wood flooring, recycled glass bar tops and paperstone dividers, all intended to reduce Harvest’s environmental footprint.
Harvest is the latest of many local upscale-ish restaurants to adopt an eco-friendly, farm-to-table approach to dining. But this place—deep in the heart of Glen Eagle Square in Glen Mills, Pennsylvania—is a much different animal than the small, rustic restaurants we usually associate with the farm-fresh movement. Harvest presents its concept in a much sleeker, much bigger (300 seats) package. Its pleasantly earth-toned dining room, accented by shelves of vases and knickknacks, is hip and modern. Young, attractive servers recite the basics of farm-to-table dining for the uninitiated. Its location and visibility guarantees a large amount of foot traffic.
Harvest then represents the mainstreaming of the farm-to-table ideal. Owner Dave Magrogan—he of Doc Magrogan’s Oyster Bar and Kildare’s Irish Pubs—will tell you as much. He sees Harvest as a natural outlet for the segment of the population that shops at Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods. And he wants to give Glen Eagle Square shoppers a better dining option than, well, Outback Steakhouse.
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