Smell the Ocean Yet?
If Delaware can be said to have a cuisine all its own, the new Salt Air defines it perfectly. Localvores, dig in.
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Desserts were more than worth saving room for, as pastry chef Rebecca Krebs turned out some of the best sweets I’ve had in awhile. And she showed serious boldness in taking on a Philly classic—the TastyKake. Krebs’ interpretation of the company’s famous Kandy Kake was a layer of spice cake, an even layer of peanut butter mousse and a coating of rich chocolate ganache. I had to grin at the similarity in taste to one of my all-time favorite snacks. Next to the irresistible dessert was a scoop of even-more irresistible dulce de leche ice cream from famed Pittsburgh ice creamery Blue Bunny.
The blueberry buckle—layers of dense cake, fresh blueberries and crumbly streusel—was heavenly. The New England classic is so named because the streusel cracks and buckles as the cake rises during baking. It almost made my knees buckle, too.
Salt Air is a good, good restaurant. Considering its modest prices—most entrées fetch around $20—and the high quality of ingredients, it is certainly one of the best values. And it is an awesome showcase of Delaware’s finest harvests. Even the complimentary after-dinner taffy (saltwater, of course) came from boardwalk classic Candy Kitchen—Delaware beach grub through and through.
Page 6: Mmmmm, Cupcakes