Bethany Beach Restaurant Review: 14 Global’s Fusion Cuisine is Out of This World
Back to the fusion: The flavors—and the clever craft cocktails—are otherworldly at 14 Global.
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Not everything worked so well. A soy-lime marinade imbued opah ceviche, an already-rich white fish, had too much salt that pulverized its texture, and left it waxy and mushy. Not even the house-fried wontons could save it. Ditto the bacon-wrapped jalapenos, which were stuffed with a gloppy, off-putting paste of braised beef and cream cheese. The peppers were also undercooked and still mostly raw. Attempting to cut them with a butter knife made the grayish stuffing spew out the end. It wasn’t pretty.
14 Global’s “communal plates” implied some level of tapas-style service, although most dishes seemed entrée-sized to me. With 40-some options, and tables ordering without abandon, the tiny kitchen occasionally got held up. Which would be a lot more grievous if Sexton’s amazing drinks didn’t fill the time so well.
A savvy veteran of the beach scene (most notably at Magnolia’s in Ocean View, and Agave in Lewes), Sexton went toe-to-toe with her kitchen’s creative wiles. So fresh and flavorful was her frozen kiwi-basil lemonade that it obfuscated the alcohol completely, leaving only a citrusy buzz in its wake. Muddled blackberries and Brazilian rum gave her Fuego Pisco a vibrant Starry Night quality, while the rosemary-infused King’s Cup blended rhubarb with Malbec and Crown Royal. Every blood orange mojito and acai berry margarita dazzled the eyes and tastebuds equally, and with lots of pop.
Quite a thing for quiet Bethany, where there are more strollers on the sidewalks than on the shelves at Bye Bye Baby, and places like Mango Mikes, Patsy’s and The Parkway serve nobly as the grown-up respites in the otherwise G-rated beachfront stretch. With bold flavors and thunderous drinks, 14 Global marks an interesting and welcome shift toward something more modern and exotic. Fortified by bacon and alcohol, the louder the better.