Bethany Beach Restaurant Review: 14 Global’s Fusion Cuisine is Out of This World
Back to the fusion: The flavors—and the clever craft cocktails—are otherworldly at 14 Global.
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14 N. Pennsylvania Ave. | Bethany Beach
616-1035 | Facebook.com/14global
Prices: appetizers $5-$14, communal plates $15-$26
Recommended dishes: chipotle-honey glazed pork belly, bacon-cheddar corn pone, craft cocktails
At this rate, Tia Sexton will have the forearms of Popeye in about three summers.
Lime after lemon after clementine after whatever else she could dig out of the fruit crisper, squashed to smithereens beneath her kung fu citrus-juicing death grip.
Behind the onyx bar at her 14 Global in Bethany Beach, Sexton squeezed, stirred and shook some of the best cocktails I had last summer. Wild, but expertly balanced creations like The Ginger—made from clementine and lime juice, ginger-pepper syrup, Hendrick’s gin and an array of flavored liqueurs—made her seem like the Walter White of mixology. Her workspace was more a science lab than a bar anyway, with its vats of liquors infusing in rosemary, pineapples and the like, and jalapeno slices spiking a squeeze bottle of simple syrup.
For Sexton, the devilish drinks are one of several outside-the-box dynamics she’s built at 14 Global. The smallish, 56-seat dining room, armored in bronze and stonework, aims for a Pangaean, borderless approach to fusion cuisine. Hawaiian opah shares menu space with kangaroo sliders, the tacos go next to the springrolls. The meatballs are Moroccan; the eggplant, Japanese. Localvores, divert thy gaze.