Review: Satsuma Asian Kitchen +Bar

Satsuma Asian Kitchen +Bar is a welcome wild card in a predictable Trolley Square scene.



Cambodian spare ribs are prepared with lemongrass, ginger, scallion and crushed almonds.

Satsuma

1707 Delaware Avenue, Wilmington, 656-3015, www.satsumakitchen.com
Recommended dishes: Wild salmon with fennel and orange, seared spicy tuna, duck salad
Prices: Little plates/sushi rolls $7-$13, large plates $17-$20

The Friday happy hour crowd, boisterous and electric on domestic beers and holiday spirit, raged on in familiar fashion at Satsuma Asian Kitchen + Bar this winter. At overcrowded hightops, Wilmington’s Trolley Square denizens—the city’s young, kinetic army of paralegals, junior bankers and social media managers—gathered as they normally do, to get nicely lathered, take selfies[1], and shout things at one another[2].

But upstairs in Satsuma’s tranquil dining room, the kids seemed miles away. Here among the intimate, aqua-colored booths, decorated tastefully with black-beaded chandeliers, the only extraneous noises were the gentle creaking of darkened hardwood floors and silverware clinking over plates of tuna tartare. All seemed peaceful.

Until…Another recognizable noise. Distant this time, but building rapidly into an earthshaking crescendo of rumbles and clangs. This was, of course, the CSX train thundering by on the old B&O rail line. It was right outside our window.

For anyone who’s spent time inside 1707 Delaware Avenue, where the Del Rose Café operated for nearly 50 years, the train sounds like an old friend. Since 1962, customers found comfort here among the beer-soaked, darkened rec-room din, where live rock bands and squashing crowds were as familiar as the rusty train trestles outside. It was a place for chicken fingers and homey Italian classics like chopped antipasto, for stumbling around during the summer months on the enclosed patio. It was the opposite of fancy[3], and that was basically the point.

So when the Del Rose closed unexpectedly last spring, it felt puzzling to watch Michael DiBianca, the multiple James Beard-nominated chef best known for his work at imminently upscale Moro, swoop in.  Wouldn’t his Hyde Park credentials, and his whimsical, lavish cuisine clash with the Del Rose’s loveable drabness? Wouldn’t his recipe for chopped antipasto call for organic red sorrel and ibérico ham. And wouldn’t it cost $47?

With the rebranded and renovated Satsuma[4], DiBianca strives for balance. With artful, simple dishes—like the striking shrimp “mojito”—he’s free to indulge his creative side while honoring the building’s casual spirit. And the vibrantly plated shrimp—blanched, butterflied and fanned out like a starfish in a fortified puddle of lime-kissed rum, coconut flakes, charred pineapple and fried mint leaves—made boilerplate shrimp cocktail seem like a faded memory.

Keeping the bar scene and recession-proof booze[5] and its heart is a smart play for Satsuma, and one that’s worked well at places like Jose Garces’ Village Whiskey in Philadelphia, where creative drinks and uptown snack food reign.

From Left to Right: The wild salmon is served with fennel, orange, tarragon oil and popcorn.;
The flash-seared spicy tuna is served with seaweed salad, Ponzu vinaigrette and wasabi peas.

 

Armed with a newly installed sushi bar and pan-Asian “street food” inspiration, Satsuma pairs lychee saketinis with perfectly flash-seared tuna, seductively soft and splashed with poppy ponzu vinaigrette; or ginger-infused Osaka mules with a crunchy pile of shaved Brussels sprouts, slowly wilting under the flavorful potpourri of cinnamon, Asian pear slices and compact sausage rounds.

Patrons can still get Miller Lights by the bucket, but they can also grab $3 pints of craft beer from Evolution and Goose Island, or something from the impressive but approachable bottle list, like Fordham’s Copperhead ale, or Sixpoint Brewery’s touted Bengali Tiger.

After a few of those, the cravings for cheese steak eggrolls, or the truffle- and duckfat-laden “Duck-Duck Disco Fries” become hard to ignore. Greasy, comforting goodness comes in all shapes and sizes at Satsuma, from the overstuffed pork fried wontons dripping with honey-sesame oil glaze, to starchy udon noodles, jumbled together deliciously and haphazardly with chewy mushrooms, wilted basil and plump edamame beans—all with an oozing fried egg on top.

The marriage of drunk and divine didn’t always work out. A pleasing porky crisp and lemongrass bbq sauce suited Cambodian spareribs well, but out of three, only one arrived without fatty stretches of gristle. Korean-inspired meatballs, whose aromatic, pineapple-soaked sauce showed promise, were themselves shriveled and hardened from overcooking. The sushi bar’s proprietary roll creations were mostly decent but forgettable spirals of tuna, tobiko and tepid[6] mayo sauces, with a few experimental wildcards—like the oddly satisfying pork belly-fried-onion Cubano roll—thrown in for good measure.

But DiBianca’s penchant for top-shelf product can only go unnoticed for so long. Unsheathed and unescorted, fish like the velvety wild salmon gleamed freshness. Dressed simply with thinly shaved fennel, tarragon oil and orange suprêmes, the salmon coursed with fingerprint-pattern fat lines, indicating its proximity to the fish’s belly, and giving it a great buttery richness. Not even the superfluous handful of microwaved popcorn (huh?[7]) strewn around the plate could spoil it.

Another DiBianca hallmark—his militantly perfect duck confit—found its way from Moro, shredded and spreading its silky richness into wilted green cabbage hunks, tart green apple slivers, and cashews.

That the chef can wedge this much of his wizardry into such a goofy and charmingly cramped floorplan is a feat unto itself. The upstairs, salvaged office space, is as impossibly narrow as the bar area. Calibrating seats for 50 diners—let along making the space feel inviting and intimate—must’ve seemed like building a Barnes & Nobel inside a gym locker.

To top it all off, the bar crowd, the chef’s target audience, hasn’t missed a beat. They’re still a pain to nudge through, but they’ve returned to the familiar brick walls in force, chopsticks replacing the garlic knots in their hands.

The missing domino between Scratch Magoo’s, Kelly’s Logan House, Catherine Rooney’s and the rest, Satsuma seems destined for Sunday Fundays, Love Seed Mama Jump reunion shows and every last godforsaken bar loop imaginable.[8]

If the heralded chef’s Trolley Square[9] stature grows, you can pencil in the Duck-Fat Disco Crawl for late summer.



[1] Your 2013 Oxford Dictionary Word of the Year, ladies and gentlemen!

[2] I’m sure there was also a SnapChat or two.

[3] Though that chopped antipasto was consistently great.

[4] Moro means blood orange in Italian, and Satsuma is Japanese for mandarin orange. Marketing consultants call this “brand consistency.”

[5] Still the restaurant industry’s undisputed revenue champ.

[6] Several dishes that were marked “spicy” on Satsuma’s menu failed to deliver much in the spice department. Weirdly, it was the usually docile bowl of steamed edamame that provided the most punch, thanks to a liberal dusting of dried hot pepper.

[7] One of the few times a menu items coaxed an eyeroll out of the server.

[8] Satsuma’s two-word digital strategy, per the company Facebook page: “NO COVER!!!!”

[9] I use the term Trolley Square loosely and colloquially. No harm intended to the steadfast residents of Forty Acres and their allies.

 

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Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
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Telephone: 302-658-9111
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
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Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
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The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE
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Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
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Nanticoke Weight Loss & General Surgery will host bariatric support groups on Tuesday, Feb. 7 from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. and Monday, Feb. 27 from 6 to 7 p.m. in the Medical Staff...

Cost: FREE

Where:
Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-536-5395
Contact Name: Nanticoke Weight Loss & General Surgery
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Tutto Fresco has live entertainment every Friday night from 6:30–9:30 p.m. Call for details. http://tuttofrescode.com/

Where:
Tutto Fresco
514 Philadelphia Pike
Wilmington, DE  19809
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Meeting every Friday, Bayhealth Kent General Hospital, 640 s. State Street, Dover, 7:30 pm., Private Dining Room #3 in the basement. For those who have, or think they may have a gambling problem....

Cost: 0.00

Where:
Bayhealth Kent General Hospital
640 S. State Street
Private Dining Room #3
Dover, DE  19901
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Telephone: 800-855-2CALLGA
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JOHNNY WINTER ALL STAR BAND The Johnny Winter Band has been wowing audiences everywhere with incredible music played by Johnny's band and guest artists. Join Paul Nelson and The JW Band in a...

Cost: $20 ADV + $22 DOS + FEES

Where:
World Cafe Live Wilmington
500 N Market St
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Telephone: 215-222-1400
Contact Name: MP Intern
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Now in its 8th year, the PAWS for People Conference/Annual Meeting is designed for those who love their pets, are pet enthusiasts or who want to learn more about the world of Pet Therapy. This...

Cost: $45 through 2/14; $50 after that date; $5 discount for PAWS members.

Where:
Nemours/Alfred I. duPont Hospital for Children
1600 Rockland Road
Wilmington, DE  19803
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Sponsor: PAWS for People
Telephone: 302-351-5622
Contact Name: Clarice Ritchie
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February 3 – 25 Group Show featuring still life paintings in oil by Rosemary Castiglioni; gestural animal paintings by Gay Freeborn; and plein air landscapes from Zion National Park,...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
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Telephone: 302-654-8638
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

The Wilmington & Western Railroad's Hockessin Art Festival is a fundraising effort to benefit the railroad. Over 25 artists will be displaying and selling limited-edition...

Cost: $3 for art show admission; $5 for train fare (children under 2 are free)

Where:
Hockessin Memorial Hall
606 Yorklyn Road
Hockessin, DE  19707
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Sponsor: Wilmington & Western Railroad
Telephone: 302-998-1930
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Are you interested in learning more about what volunteer opportunities the Kalmar Nyckel Foundation has to offer? Consider attending our Volunteer Open House at our shipyard in Wilmington, DE from...

Cost:

Where:
Kalmar Nyckel Foundation
1124 E 7th St
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

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DCM Guests will experience, engage in, and take home different STEAM (Science, Technology, Engineering, Art, Mathmatics) activities run by Science Ambassadors from the Charter School of Wilmington...

Cost: $8.75

Where:
Delaware Children's Museum
550 Justison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Telephone: 302-425-4890
Contact Name: Joe Valenti
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The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

Build a hydraulic-powered machine while learning about pressure, water, and power. Families work together to solve science mysteries and engineering challenges. Activities are included in regular...

Cost: Adults: $14, Children 6-14: $5, Children 5 and under and Hagley Members: FREE

Where:
Hagley Museum and Library
200 Hagley Creek Road
Wilmington, DE  19807
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Nanticoke Weight Loss & General Surgery will host bariatric support groups on Tuesday, Feb. 7 from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. and Monday, Feb. 27 from 6 to 7 p.m. in the Medical Staff...

Cost: FREE

Where:
Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-536-5395
Contact Name: Nanticoke Weight Loss & General Surgery
Website »

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An evening of entertainment and hope at the 2017 Wilmington Heart Ball. Each year, community members, medical professionals and corporate leaders come together to celebrate the lifesaving work of...

Cost:

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
815 Justison St
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Join us for an unforgettable evening of entertainment and hope at the 2017 Wilmington Heart Ball.  Each year, community members, medical professionals and corporate leaders come together to...

Cost: $175

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
815 Justison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Sponsor: American Heart Association
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We are a mixture of some of the best and hardest working musicians in the Philadelphia area specializing in a mashup concept, fusing the music of The Allman Brothers Band and The Grateful Dead....

Cost: $10 + FEES

Where:
World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
Wilmington, DE
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Mo Lowda & The Humble is a three piece Indie-rock group from Philadelphia, PA. The band has created a unique musical style combining various genre's ranging from garage rock to jazz fusion;...

Cost: $10 + FEES

Where:
World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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