Ernest & Scott Taproom is a Gastropub in Wilmington, Delaware

The Great Gastropub: Bistro-style cuisine and a unique beer menu help make Ernest & Scott Taproom something to write home about.



At a Glance

Ernest & Scott Taproom
902 N. Market St., Wilmington, 384-8113, ernestandscott.com

Recommended dishes:
shrimp and lobster risotto, chopped brisket burger, Cuban-style pork tenderloin

Prices:
Appetizers $6.50-$14.50, entrées $17-$24

 

In Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris,” Owen Wilson hops into a magical cab, emerges in 1920s Paris, and pals around with Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. In the movie, the pair come across like a literary Laurel and Hardy. Hemingway, brusque and macho, is a primordial picture of masculinity. He refers to things he likes as “noble and true.” Fitzgerald meanwhile is portrayed as polite, fey and sophisticated—and frequently overwhelmed by his nutty wife, Zelda.

Ernest & Scott Taproom, named for the American literary giants (one of whom, Fitzgerald, spent a few years living in Delaware), doesn’t bonk you over the head with such dichotomies. But the Market Street “beer-garden,” which debuted in January, harbors a few interesting contrasts of its own.

Owner Scott Morrison pours a brew.  Photograph by Jared CastaldiOwner Scott Morrison and his team overhauled the former Public House into a mishmash of old and new. Regal purple and gold drapes separate the bar from the dining area, and lend chic, while a towering sculpture in the main dining area hugs mammoth oak beer barrels, with the old Delaware Trust griffin logo blazed into the heads and staves. (The griffins, naturally, have hop cones for tails.) Outside, a light-up scoreboard-style sign lures Wilmingtonians inside toward the sparkling LED archways.

Fine, so Flashing Lights v. Coopery doesn’t have quite the same zing as Fitzgerald v. Hemingway. But what about Beer v. Food? Or Wilmington v. Rehoboth?

Helping to sort it all out is Dogfish Head owner Sam Calagione, who consulted with Morrison on the E&S concept. The globetrotting Calagione had not only his cachet and celebrity to loan, but an arsenal of world-changing beer artistry.

The results of the collaboration are clear: E&S has taken the next big leap in Delaware’s gastropub revolution. Its weapon is a strong rotation of cask- and bottle-conditioned beers. The unfiltered and unpasteurized brews are known as “real ales” to beer nuts because they contain live, natural yeast, which over time helps to develop deep, rich flavors in beers. Served room-temperature and without extraneous gases to get in the way, conditioned beers are literally alive with fermented essence.

From one cask dripped DFH’s 75 Minute IPA, brimming with dulcet maple flavor and the bite of bitter hops. Cask offerings rotate four at a time, and brewers represented on my visits included Yards and Evolution. An even longer list of bottle-conditioned  beers exists. (Same concept, different vessel.)

The E&S bar is stocked additionally with bottles and kegs of strictly American craft beers, and its tenders are happy to line up four-pour samplers for the indecisive.

E&S boasts a strong rotation of cask- and bottle-conditioned beers, known as “real ales” to aficionados. Photograph by Jared CastaldiClearly E&S invested heavily in its beer program, so it’s fair to wonder whether the food can keep pace. Like Chelsea Tavern, Morrison’s cross-street venture, E&S subscribes to comfy, bistro-style cuisine, with a shake or two of uptown flare. His chef is Kevin Torpey, whose previous posts include Harvest Grill. He’s upped his game at E&S, subbing headstrong flavors in place of Harvest’s low-cal minimalism. Though at times, it seemed like the kitchen couldn’t decide whether it wanted to be big and bold like Hemingway, or elegant and poetic like Fitzgerald. Often, the dishes with the most flavor arrived in less-than-stellar condition.

Flounder Francese, for instance, could’ve used a bit more primping at the expediting station. The tender filets soaked up loads of zest from a citrus-butter sauce, but the plate’s many disparate parts—unruly mounds of polenta, crispy cauliflower florets, and splatters of sauce—comprised a mess of a plate. Far more egregious were the dozen or so pin bones I had to pull from my teeth.

Still, the E&S kitchen produced way more hits than misses. A far more focused (and Fitzgeraldy) dish was the house-smoked salmon starter: the fish, flaky and subtle, reposed around spinach greens, fried capers and crispy leeks inside a flaky puff pastry shell. Shrimp and lobster risotto united around a luscious, buttery lobster broth, plump shrimp and lobster claws, and an unmistakable burst of saffron that perfumed and enlivened every morsel. Rich and savory beef brisket made a luxurious filling for empenadas, and an even better foil for a garlicky green salsa that popped with delicious tartness.

Beer barrels are emblazoned with the old Delaware Trust griffin logo. Photograph by Jared CastaldiYet Torpey saved his best for the Cuban-style pork tenderloin, tender and majestic over a bouquet of crispy bacon, saffron rice, black beans and tomatillos. Its succulence was just barely overshadowed by the fried mini-doughnuts with chocolate stout sauce, and the chopped brisket burger with razor-sharp provolone.

I didn’t expect the side of steak with my steak, but that’s what made short rib and bistro steak frites such a puzzler. In one corner of the plate, tender hunks of braised beef short rib; in the other corner, sliced sirloin. Between was piles of fries and salad greens. The resulting plash of Béarnaise, demi-glace, salad dressing and meat juice that pooled on the plate was less than savory. The short rib, tender in the middle, was dried out at its surface. The bistro steak, drizzled with a heavenly rosemary-kicked Béarnaise, was cold.

Maybe a little unevenness is appropriate for a place named after two guys who shared a turbulent relationship. And most of all, beer-lovers should rejoice in the E&S beer garden. The craft beer tide hasn’t just shifted—it’s risen above our noses, and with Ernest & Scott, Morrison (and Calagione) has upped Delaware’s acumen. It’s an endeavor one could only describe as, well, noble and true.

As the real Ernest said: “I have drunk since I was fifteen and few things have given me more pleasure.”

“First you take a drink, then the drink takes a drink, then the drink takes you,” Scott might say back.

2012 Savor Ernest

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February 2017

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606 Yorklyn Road
Hockessin, DE  19707
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Sponsor: Wilmington & Western Railroad
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Hockessin , DE  19711
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Cost: FREE

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801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-658-9111
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Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
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Wilmington, DE  19807
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Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

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Cost: Free

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Sponsor: Notbybreadalone Outreach Ministries
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Nanticoke Weight Loss & General Surgery will host bariatric support groups on Tuesday, Feb. 7 from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. and Monday, Feb. 27 from 6 to 7 p.m. in the Medical Staff...

Cost: FREE

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Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
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Telephone: 302-536-5395
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Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
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Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

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Cost: Members:$6 Others:$10

Where:
DuPont Environmental Education Center
1400 Delmarva Lane
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

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Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
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Cost: Free

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East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
Millsboro, DE  19966
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Telephone: 302-945-3489
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Cost: frr

Where:
East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
Millsboro, DE  19966
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Sponsor: East Coast Garden Center
Telephone: 302-945-3489
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Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
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Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

Nanticoke Weight Loss & General Surgery hosts nutrition classes on the first Wednesday of each month from 4:30 pm to 5:30 pm at the Nanticoke Training Center located at 121 S. Front Street in...

Cost: FREE

Where:
Nanticoke Training Center
121 S Front Street
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-536-5395
Contact Name: Nanticoke Weight Loss & General Surgery
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Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9:30AM-12:00PM Fall session: Thursday, Dec 1st thru Thursday, December 15th Winter session: Tuesday, January 17th thru Thursday, March 30th   Drop in on Nature is...

Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
View map »


Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

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Cost: Cost: $30 for TLC members / $40 for non-members

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Bucktoe Creek Preserve
432 Sharp Rd
Avondale, PA  19311
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Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
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Cost: Free

Where:
Wilmington University
Audrey Kohl Doberstein Admissions Center auditorium
320 N. DuPont Highway
New Castle, DE  19720
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Sponsor: Wilmington University
Telephone: (302) 295-1160
Contact Name: College of Online and Experiential Learning
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Cost: $25-35

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Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library
5105 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
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Cost: Childbirth class, $50. Refresher class, $25.

Where:
Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-629-6611 x2540
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Where:
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Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
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Cost: $12 ADV - $15 DOS + FEES

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World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

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Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

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Cost: $12 Members, $14 Non-Members (Café lunch voucher included in price)

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

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Where:
Tutto Fresco
514 Philadelphia Pike
Wilmington, DE  19809
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Cost: 0.00

Where:
Bayhealth Kent General Hospital
640 S. State Street
Private Dining Room #3
Dover, DE  19901
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Telephone: 800-855-2CALLGA
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The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Elephant Man by Bernard Pomerance. The moving tale of John Merrick, a...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
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Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
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Cost: $29-$59

Where:
OperaDelaware Studio
4 South Poplar St.
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Sponsor: OperaDelaware
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Cost: $15 ADV - $17 DOS + FEES

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World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Cost: Free

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First State Heritage Park
121 Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd N
Dover, DE  19901
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Sponsor: First State Heritage Park
Telephone: 302-739-9194
Contact Name: Sarah Zimmerman
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Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free

Where:
First State Heritage Park
121 Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd N
Dover, DE  19901
View map »


Sponsor: First State Heritage Park
Telephone: 302-739-9194
Contact Name: Sarah Zimmerman
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

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Cost:

Where:
Kalmar Nyckel Foundation
1124 E 7th St
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Website »

More information

Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

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Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

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Cost: $30

Where:
Various Locations
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Telephone: 1-888-858-9675
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Collector Eric Holzenberg will explore W. Heath Robinson’s significant contribution to the gift book phenomenon in works he illustrated and wrote, including The Adventures of Uncle Lubin (1902)...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Elephant Man by Bernard Pomerance. The moving tale of John Merrick, a...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

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Cost: $60 + FEES

Where:
World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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