Small Plates, Big Flavor

Wilmington’s only true tapas restaurant delivers delicious food and potential to spare.

by Pam George Published May 12, 2009 at 10:48 AM

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White and red sangria and slices of Spanish manchego cheese. Photograph by Thom Thompson

“Flatbread—cocas—is very traditional in Spain,” Lazzarini says. “The ingredients can be anything you want.” Though more pickled than pungent, the anchovies’ presence was hard to miss.

I expected to see cod croquettes on the menu, but there was nothing offered during my visits. Lazzarini says he initially “played it safe, but now I know what I can serve here, and I’m adding more traditional dishes like cod fritters.”

I sampled Serrano ham croquettes served with a guava-rum glaze. Finely diced ham meshed with a velvety béchamel sauce to create a luscious filling. The kitchen has a real skill with dishes that require a crisp crust. It manages to deliver a crunchy coating while keeping the contents moist. Witness both the empanada de pollo and the empanada de ropa vieja, cut into neat triangles and perched on a plate.

The classic flatbread woke my mouth right up. Strips of white anchovies marinated in white vinegar shared the edible canvas with snappy asparagus, sliced hard-boiled egg and more piquillo peppers.

The fly in the sangria is the service. There didn’t seem to be enough servers on one occasion, and the process was slow. On a busy night, don’t linger over coffee. The hostess gave us the evil eye to such an extent we forewent dessert. Our server had discouraged us anyway by noting the small selection. Maybe she wanted the table free, too.

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