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FeedHigh Steaks
Beef is in, and these 10 local restaurants do steak right.
The chili-rubbed Delmonico at Firebirds Wood Fired Grill gains its savory flavor from hickory and oak.
Photograph by Thom Thompson
Hidden Places for Great Beef
When your dining partner starts gassing about marbling and such, you know you’re dining with a beef fanatic, one who slavishly follows the rules of steak cooking: Let the meat come to room temperature, season simply, then sear. But no two grillmasters do steak exactly the same—not that one has to be a specialist to do it well. Outstanding cuts can be found in surprising places, not just steakhouses. Below, a few hidden gems (with a couple obvious choices, too).
Firebirds Wood Fired Grill
The secret to great steak at this boutique chain is wafting on the air. That smoke is the result of a real hickory and oak wood fire. Open-flame grilling adds an extra dimension to the flavor of a filet mignon wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon and to the chili-rubbed Delmonico. “When you smell the wood burning, there’s something very primal and nostalgic about it,” says executive chef Steven Sturm. 1225 Churchmans Road, Newark, 366-7577
1776 Restaurant
Owner Tom Holmes tasted steaks until he landed on the most mouthwatering. His 1776 now employs both dry and wet techniques when aging steaks to tender perfection. The Certified Angus barrel cut—the house signature—is the eye of the rib eye. It’s seasoned lightly on both sides, then seared in a 1,600-degree oven. The well-marbled Delmonico is a top seller. 4590 Highway One, Rehoboth Beach, 645-9355
Baywood Clubhouse Restaurant
Baywood’s tender prime rib can only be attained by waking up early in the morning, then slow roasting the beef until chef John Sapienza can carve it with a butter knife. Other popular cuts, like an 8-ounce filet and a 10-ounce New York strip, come from Atlanta’s Buckhead Beef Co., known for its high quality meats. The filet, served with a pat of herb butter on top, is just as good. 32267 Clubhouse Way, Long Neck, 947-9225
Bonz
Asked which cut of beef Bonz does best, sous chef Phillip Williams says, “We do them all the best.” Surely, the Bonz crew is confident in its eight steak offerings, from the 22-ounce charbroiled Cowboy steak to the rarely-seen bone-in filet mignon. All come from revered Rastelli Bros., and all get a finishing dash of sea salt cultivated in England. 15 W. Rider Road, Harrington, 398-5348
Chadds Ford Tavern
Cozy, family-owned Chadds Ford Tavern houses a fireplace, Tiffany lamps and some of the tenderest steak you’ll ever eat. The steak Diane, bathed in a sauce of shallots, brandy, local mushrooms, herbs and mustard, is a favorite. For true indulgence, go for the filet mignon, amazingly tender and adorably topped with a mushroom cap. 1400 Baltimore Pike, Chadds Ford, Pa., (610) 459-8453
Finbar’s Pub and Grill
Finbar’s does a nightly prime rib special and a super-flavorful 12-ounce strip steak. But chef Ian Mangin’s masterpiece is the 8-ounce hand-cut filet, which is grilled and smothered in an Irish whiskey sauce. The creamy sauce gets its body from the whiskey, with a hint of sweetness from sautéed shallots. 316 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 227-1873
Hollywood Grill
Good luck getting close enough to even smell the steak at Hollywood Grill most nights. The place uses only USDA Choice grade beef for its porterhouse and New York strip, which are char-grilled to order, says owner Phil Hanos. The key to great flavor, he says, is searing the meat correctly to seal in the juices. Every Saturday, Hollywood packs them in for slow-cooked prime rib au jus. 1811 Concord Pike, Wilmington, 655-1348
Palettes Restaurant and Lounge
Chef Dante Iocona takes the high road even higher with his extravagant java-crusted filet mignon topped with a rich wild mushroom demi-glace. His second steak offering is Kentucky onion rib eye with sweet potato purée and a bourbon chili sauce. Room service, anyone? 4727 Concord Pike, Wilmington, 478-6000
Stanley’s Tavern
Stanley’s could easily print a menu of wings, ribs and burgers and still pack the house every night. Yet the tavern serves some of the best USDA Choice Midwestern steaks around, courtesy of George L. Wells Meat Co. in Philly. “The magic is that we buy the best product we can,” says owner Steve Torpey. The 6-ounce center cut sirloin is a hot seller, right ahead of the 10-ounce New York strip and an 8-ounce filet. All are seasoned simply, then charbroiled to bring out the meat’s natural flavors. 2038 Foulk Road, Wilmington, 475-1887
Union City Grille
Matt Curtis likes his steak to taste like steak, not like some fancy Cabernet demi-glace. That’s why he preaches the great, natural flavor of quality meat resulting from proper caramelization, proper rest, and maybe a pat of whipped butter at the end of grilling. Curtis’ fave is the juicy grilled hanger steak, which he calls a true steak-eater’s steak. 805 N. Union St., Wilmington, 654-9780
