Sushi on the Strip

When it comes to sushi, Masamoto really shines. Plus, Dana Herbert's super-sweet sculptures.




Scallops served with lime and salmon tobiko.
Photograph by Thom Thompson,
www.thomthompson.com

 

Masamoto Asian Grill & Sushi Bar
1810 Wilmington Pike, Suite 6
Glen Mills, Pa. (610) 358-5538
www.masamotosushi.com

Prices
Appetizers $3-$8, specialty rolls $6.50-$12, entrées $11-$20

Recommended dishes
Anything sushi, the Masamoto roll and volcano roll, the yellowtail carpaccio

 

When it comes to fish, Masamoto really shines.
by Pam George

Asian food traditionally appeals to the eye as well as the palate. The food is artfully crafted and beautifully presented in a pleasing environment.

Unfortunately, that approach is missing in many of the mom-and-pop shops that pepper the urban and suburban landscape. The emphasis locally is on inexpensive food and lots of it, which, in the case of Chinese restaurants, means a heavy dose of bok choy, carrots and crunchy broccoli. No matter the cuisine, you will get rice—by the bucket.

Not that there’s anything wrong with that. Indeed, if you want to feel like a New Yorker—namely Woody Allen in “Manhattan” or Miranda in “Sex and the City”—watch TV in bed, twirling your chopsticks in a container from the corner takeout.

Delawareans who want a more refined Asian experience, however, must go to the stylish Cultured Pearl, which has had more looks than Madonna, or Mikimotos, which appeals to both sushi-lovers and singles looking for love. Then there is Jasmine, whose lounge-like atmosphere is très chic for the suburbs.

Now there is another contender: Masamoto Asian Grill & Sushi Bar on U.S. 202 in Glen Mills, just over the Delaware-Pennsylvania state line.

Owned by Johnny Cai, formerly the executive sushi chef at Jasmine, Masamoto is smaller than its neighbors. The number of wait staff on our visits also seems on the small side. Until they ramp up on employees, don’t go for dinner if you have a time limit.

At least you needn’t wait for a drink, and this is Masamoto’s big advantage: It is a bring-your-own-bottle establishment. An Asian BYOB? Within close proximity to Wilmington? Could it get any better than that?

It can, and it does.

Like Jasmine and Mikimotos, Masamoto offers multiple Asian cuisines—primarily Japanese, Thai and Chinese. The sushi, though, is outstanding.


Hostess and co-owner Yuki Zheng presents the East
West sashimi appetizer. Photograph by Thom Thompson,
www.thomthompson.com

Try the refreshing Masamoto roll, a neat package of salmon, tuna and avocado wrapped in a thin strip of cucumber and adorned with crunchy caviar. Why, I wonder, don’t sushi chefs use cucumber as a cummerbund more often? It is so much lighter and easier to eat than a roll made with nori seaweed.

Then there’s the volcano roll, a fiery blend of minced crabmeat and spicy shrimp served on a square of crimped foil. The little morsels clearly spent some time in the toaster oven that glows red behind the sushi bar.

Because of Masamoto’s intimate layout, nearly everyone can view the sushi chefs at work, baseball hats pulled over their foreheads, hands a blur behind the clear case of gleaming fish.

The chefs continually rinse white towels in a stainless steel sink and scrub down the white bar, which looks pristine against the room’s richly colored walls—olive green, mustard yellow and terra cotta. Across the back wall is the word “Masamoto,” not only the restaurant’s name, but also the name of the famous Japanese sushi knife manufacturer.

The dining room is understated but fashionable. The floor is unadorned wood. Chopsticks come wrapped in white linen napkins on black-top tables, and art is sparingly placed. There are no shoji screens, Chinese lanterns or bamboo accents. In short, the theme is less ethnic, more upscale dining.

The presentations emphasize that fact. Picture paper-thin slivers of nearly transparent fluke draped on a mound of crushed ice. A container of ponzu sauce, worked into the mound’s peak, made the whole dish look like a glittering, icy volcano. I wished I’d brought vodka instead of white wine. Next time.


The mango shrimp is served with red and green bell peppers and
a mango sour sauce. Photograph by Thom Thompson,
www.thomthompson.com

Simultaneously sweet, soy and citrusy, the ponzu didn’t overwhelm the melt-in-your-mouth fish, which was so cold it occasionally made my teeth hurt. Still, I was thrilled with the dish, which like all Masamoto’s creations, employs amazingly fresh fish.

Known as usuzukuri, the fluke is listed as one of Masamoto’s omakase creations. Omakase, Japanese for “entrusting,” means “Let the chef decide.” I loved the yellowtail carpaccio, morsels of fish resting in a bronze-colored sauce made with shiro miso (white miso) and the spicy and somewhat fruity aji-amailio pepper, which comes from South America.

I initially wasn’t as keen on another ethnic fusion. The flatbread on the tuna pizza was burned black in spots. After bringing the scorch to our server’s attention, we received two fresh slices to replace the two we’d eaten.

The new slices displayed an intriguing mix of textures, flavors and temperatures: cool, velvety tuna, crisp flatbread, snappy cilantro and tingly jalapeño rings. The pizza, however, was missing the “chef’s special sauce.”

Along with the flatbread, there were two other flaws in execution, which can be easily remedied. The pretty Greenville roll—a dressed-up spider roll—was cold and mushy, perhaps owing to the addition of spicy tuna. Or maybe it just sat too long before greeting our table.

The whole red snapper looked downright scary. The fish, placed face up on the plate, had curled into itself so that it looked like something out of “Alien.” The golden crust was good, but there wasn’t enough meat on the fish’s bones to make picking worthwhile. There also wasn’t enough of the tang in the promised tangy sauce.


Chef and co-owner Johnny Cai tends the sushi bar.
Photograph by Thom Thompson,
www.thomthompson.com

We turned happy again when we sampled the salty-sweet Korean barbecued short ribs, which were sliced into squares and served with romaine leaves that could act as a tortilla. Add the accompanying kimchi to turn up the heat. The fermented vegetables, which look interestingly like pasta on the plate, offer a blast as addictive as wasabi.

Masamoto’s lettuce wrap is certainly equal to or exceeds the version made famous at a nearby chain. As with so many Asian dishes, the wrap demonstrates a blend of flavors and textures, from the cool crispness of the lettuce leaves to the sweet, salty and slightly spicy sauce that bathes the finely diced chicken.

I liked Masamoto’s kung pao chicken, a blend of golden-fried chicken nuggets and peanuts, but I wanted more of the chili sauce. I also appreciated the Peking duck, slivers of meat—some wearing a crackling skin—served alongside scallion ribbons. Alone, the meat was a tad dry. But that wasn’t an issue when I smeared it with hoisin sauce and tucked it into steamed buns that looked like alabaster pillows.

If these two dishes seem familiar, it’s because Masamoto seems to play it safe with its entrées. Selections including basil beef, green or red Thai curry and shrimp tempura dominate the list. Desserts are equally familiar. Think green tea, mochi or tempura ice cream, and tempura bananas.

Perhaps that is because Cai’s talents shine at the sushi bar, where he was stationed on one visit, dicing, slicing and assembling rolls alongside another chef.

Hopefully, Masamoto will get more creative with its entrées. Until then, I’m happy to sit back in a tasteful environment, sip wine brought from home and sample fresh seafood still fragrant with the scent of the sea.

 

 

 
Dana Herbert with a sugar sculpture of the Blue Hen and a couple of
his cakes. Photograph by Pat Crowe II, www.patcrowephotograph.com

Sugar Daddy
Dana Herbert lives in sugar and butter. 

The UD grad and Bear resident puts in 50 hours a week as pastry chef at the Philadelphia Downtown Marriott. The rest of his time is devoted to his Desserts by Dana bakeshop in Bear, where he crafts wedding cakes and mini-cheesecakes alongside his visually stunning sugar sculptures.

Herbert creates the showpieces for weddings and private events. While attending culinary school in Rhode Island, Herbert was drawn into the specialized world of pastry arts, where gum paste, pastillage and PVC tubing are part of the accoutrement.

“I found myself doing all the artsy stuff that a lot of people didn’t want to touch,” Herbert says. “Something kept calling me to the pastry side.”

Sugar sculptures can be more delicate than single-pane glass, so it’s taken years for Herbert to master the complicated relationship between sugar and temperature. An average showpiece takes eight painstaking hours to complete.

Herbert made a 6-foot sugar flower arrangement last year for the Philadelphia Flower Show, a Philly sports-themed piece for ESPN, sculptures for the Paris Gourmet and Cacao Noel Pastry Exhibition, and one pretty sharp Delaware-themed masterpiece.           
                         
—Matt Amis

 

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow TagsEdit Module Edit ModuleShow Tags Edit ModuleShow Tags

January 2017

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Sports Card & Collectible Show at Aetna Fire Hall on Jan. 22—sign up now! -Sports Cards McFarlane Figures Comic Books Non-Sports cards Wrestling Items Vintage Starting...

Cost: $2

Where:
Aetna Fire Hall
400 Ogletown Road
Newark, DE  19711
View map »


Sponsor: A2Z Promotions
Telephone: 302-983-2636
Contact Name: Bob Harper
Website »

More information

The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

Belly Dance Classes with Zahra Beginner & intermediate classes open to teens and adults Sundays in January starting Jan 8th Beginner: 2:30-3:30 p.m. Intermediate: 1 - 2 p.m (must get...

Cost: $15-$42

Where:
Take the Lead Studio
320 Lantana Drive
Hockessin , DE  19711
View map »


Sponsor: Take the Lead
Contact Name: Zahra
Website »

More information

The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

Ah, typecasting—the baritone is always the bad guy! In Devils, Drunks & Dastardly Dudes, we’ll go on an operatic journey of men behaving badly. We’ll add a tenor to the mix, too… but we...

Cost: $29-$59

Where:
OperaDelaware Studio
4 South Poplar St.
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Sponsor: OperaDelaware
Telephone: 302-442-7809
Contact Name: Mary Wilcosky
Website »

More information

Come give curling a try! At this 2-hour intro-to-curling event we'll provide a basic lesson then coach you through a mini-game.  Whether you just want to cross #curling off your bucket list or...

Cost: $35

Where:
The Pond Ice Arena
101 John Campbell Rd
Newark, DE  19711
View map »


Sponsor: Diamond State Curling Club
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

Notbybreadalone Ministries presents Feeding the Hungry Outreach. All are welcome to come and partake of food, fun and fellowship. Those who desire a better way of life through Jesus Christ are...

Cost: Free

Where:
2nd and 3rd Streets
Wilmington, DE  19801


Sponsor: Notbybreadalone Outreach Ministries
Telephone: 442-0440
Contact Name: Ministers Wayne and Stephanie Dumpson
Website »

More information

Guest speakers Patty Dailey-Lewis, executive director of the Beau Biden Foundation, and Delaware Family Court commissioner Loretta Young will discuss how participation in social media can too...

Cost: Free

Where:
Wilmington University - Dover
Building A Auditorium
3282 N DuPont Highway
Dover, DE  19901
View map »


Sponsor: Wilmington University College of Social & Behavioral Sciences
Telephone: 302-295-1164
Contact Name: Dr. Johanna Bishop
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9:30AM-12:00PM Fall session: Thursday, Dec 1st thru Thursday, December 15th Winter session: Tuesday, January 17th thru Thursday, March 30th   Drop in on Nature is...

Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
View map »


Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
Website »

More information

East Coast Garden Center Indoor Farmers Market Nov 8, 2016 - April 11, 2017  11 am- 2 pm 25 vendors Location:  East Coast Garden Center 30366 Cordrey Rd Millsboro, DE 19966 302-945-3489

Cost: frr

Where:
East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
Millsboro, DE  19966
View map »


Sponsor: East Coast Garden Center
Telephone: 302-945-3489
Website »

More information

East Coast Garden Center Indoor Farmer's Marke 25 vendors

Cost: Free

Where:
East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
Millsboro, DE  19966
View map »


Telephone: 302-945-3489
Website »

More information

The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

A four-week series of ballroom dancing classes taught by teachers from the BlueBallroom. Tuesdays starting Jan. 10. Classes are $30 a lesson for Non-Members. Non-Member slots are limited. For...

Cost: $30

Where:
University and Whist Club
805 N Broom St
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9:30AM-12:00PM Fall session: Thursday, Dec 1st thru Thursday, December 15th Winter session: Tuesday, January 17th thru Thursday, March 30th   Drop in on Nature is...

Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
View map »


Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
Website »

More information

Thursdays from 4:00PM-5:30PM Fall session: December 1st, 8th and 15th Winter session: Starts January 19th, every other Thursday until March 30th This program is based entirely outdoors and is...

Cost: Cost: $30 for TLC members / $40 for non-members

Where:
Bucktoe Creek Preserve
432 Sharp Rd
Avondale, PA  19311
View map »


Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
Website »

More information

MARC BROUSSARD In 2004, Marc Broussard, then a precocious 22-year-old singer/songwriter, released his major-label debut; he called it Carencro, after the Louisiana town where he was born and...

Cost: $22 SRO- $32 SEATED

Where:
World Cafe Live Wilmington
500 N Market St
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 215-222-1400
Contact Name: MP Intern
Website »

More information

The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Tutto Fresco has live entertainment every Friday night from 6:30–9:30 p.m. Call for details. http://tuttofrescode.com/

Where:
Tutto Fresco
514 Philadelphia Pike
Wilmington, DE  19809
View map »

More information

The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

Meeting every Friday, Bayhealth Kent General Hospital, 640 s. State Street, Dover, 7:30 pm., Private Dining Room #3 in the basement. For those who have, or think they may have a gambling problem....

Cost: 0.00

Where:
Bayhealth Kent General Hospital
640 S. State Street
Private Dining Room #3
Dover, DE  19901
View map »


Telephone: 800-855-2CALLGA
Website »

More information

Cost: $12-$20

Where:
Wilmington Drama League
10 West Lea Blvd.
Wilmington, DE  19802
View map »


Sponsor: Wilmington Drama League
Telephone: 302-764-3396
Contact Name: Kathy Buterbaugh
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

January 28 – Saturday – 1 to 4 p.m. Science Saturday – Truss Me, You Won’t Fall! Become an engineer for the day. Design a bridge to hold as much weight as possible....

Cost: Activities are included in regular admission and free for members.

Where:
Hagley Museum
201 Hagley Creek Road
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Sponsor: Hagley Museum
Telephone: (302) 65802400 x 238
Contact Name: Jessica Eisenbrey
Website »

More information

The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

GRILLED CHEESE AND CRAFT BEER TASTING We have taken two of the best things on earth and paired them together – Grilled Cheese and Craft Beer – and paired them together in unexpected and...

Cost: $40

Where:
World Cafe Live Wilmington
500 N Market St
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 215-222-1400
Contact Name: MP Intern
Website »

More information

Saturday, January 28, 2017 at  7:30 pm at St. David’s Episcopal Church, 763 Valley Forge Rd, Wayne, PA 19087 Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 3 pm at Church of the Holy Trinity, Rittenhouse Square...

Cost: Tickets are $25 online, and $30 at the door. Student tickets $10 at the door.

Where:
Church of the Holy Trinity
1904 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA  19103
View map »


Sponsor: Lyric Fest
Telephone: 215-438-1702
Contact Name: Jessica Nelson
Website »

More information

Fan favorite, Dick Smith, returns to the Dickinson Theatre Organ Society concert stage on Saturday, Jan. 28, 2017 for a show that is sure to bring the house down! Dick Smith has been a...

Cost: $15 Adults; $10 Students

Where:
John Dickinson High School Auditorium
1801 Milltown Road
Wilmington, DE  19808
View map »


Sponsor: Dickinson Theatre Organ Society
Telephone: 302-995-2603
Contact Name: Bob Dilworth
Website »

More information

The Dickinson Theatre Organ Society presents Dick Smith. For tickets, click here: http://www.dtoskimball.org/events-tickets/ticket-information/ For further information, please call us at...

Where:
, DE

More information

The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

Cost: $12-$20

Where:
Wilmington Drama League
10 West Lea Blvd.
Wilmington, DE  19802
View map »


Sponsor: Wilmington Drama League
Telephone: 302-764-3396
Contact Name: Kathy Buterbaugh
Website »

More information

MOTHERSHIP Mothership is the area's premier Led Zeppelin Tribute show. Composed of seasoned, professional musicians Mario Padovani - vocals, keyboards, Frank Ginocchio - drums, Chris Julian -...

Cost: 15

Where:
World Cafe Live Wilmington
500 N Market St
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 215-222-1400
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...
Edit Module