SAVOR, THE REVIEW: Vive La Big Fork

Big Fork, a BYOB in Chadds Ford, feels more like France than the town in Montana. We're glad.


Published:

 

Big Fork Restaurant
U.S. 202 and Ridge Road, Chadds Ford, Pennsylvania,
(610) 358-8008

Recomendations
Halibut “hunter style,” grilled chicken with jus
poulet, chile-rubbed
flat-iron steak, creamy polenta, apple crisp.

 

This BYOB

in Chadds Ford

feels more like France than the town in Montana.

Some come just

for the halibut.

 

It took a bit of reflection to decide the Big Fork Restaurant had the right name after all—and not because of the giant piece of flatware that graces one wall.

If chef-owner Kevin Diskin’s BYOB dining room was really intended to remind us of the town in Montana, it would use more than a few wagon-wheel chandeliers and some prints in the bathrooms to evoke it. In practice, Big Fork’s look and style owe more to Provence than the Great Plains, which is only fitting, given Diskin’s training at the Culinary Institute of America and experience at Philadelphia’s esteemed Le Bec-Fin. He deploys it here on a menu that features as much seafood as meat, and there’s not a buffalo steak in sight.

The restaurant occupies a rather small space, about 50 seats, bisected by a low dividing wall, but it doesn’t feel cramped, thanks to high ceilings and a sunny, pale yellow color scheme that sets off natural wood furniture. The room is filled with intimate tables, decorated with small sprays of flowers. With sparsely decorated walls soaring to a high gable, it looks more like farmhouse than hunting lodge. The menu follows the same trail. With a few exceptions, most dishes are prepared in a light, French style, supplemented with some haute-diner comfort classics.

What makes the Big Fork moniker apt is the location. You’re not going to stumble onto it by accident. In the restaurant’s case, though, it has nothing to do with distance. It’s the visibility, or lack of it. Big Fork is tucked away a few hundred yards off busy U.S. 202, in the last spot in Olde Ridge Village, a country-themed shopping strip across from Glen Eagle Square. (Nowadays the address is Chadds Ford, but old-timers call the area Concordville). It’s within two miles over the state line, but hard to find if you don’t know what you’re looking for.

Big Fork is one of the growing brigade of BYO restaurants that have captured so much of the fine dining market in Chester County. It’s even more economical than most; unlike many, it adds no charge for uncorking a bottle of wine.

The main draw is the taste and talent of chef Diskin, a CIA grad who cooked under Georges Perrier before moving on to Philadelphia landmarks such as Jake’s. Diskin’s sensibility is geared to refined interpretations of rustic French cooking, and his presentations are practical, not artistic—again, an artful take on something basic, not art for art’s sake.

Though the menu is seasonal, some dishes have been carried over for several months, so they’re obviously cornerstones of Diskin’s style: a flat-iron steak rubbed with chile pepper, halibut served “hunter style,” with pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon. There’s always a risotto, the ingredients changing to reflect the market.

The chef’s deft, sophisticated touch is displayed to best effect on the halibut, a cold-water flatfish that is larger and firmer than flounder. A mix of mushrooms and pearl onions with bacon lardoons might sound entirely too heavy, totally inappropriate, yet Diskin pulls it off by keeping the sauce feather light and using the freshest, most delicate tiny onions, cooked just enough. The dish would ennoble almost any white wine.

That’s not true of the other fish mainstay, mahi mahi in lemon-caper vinaigrette accompanied by fingerling potatoes, haricot vert and grape tomatoes. Mahi meat is a notch less firm and lighter than tuna, but Diskin’s gentle sauce would be overwhelmed by anything stronger than Pinot Grigio. The potatoes, cooked through—still firm but not dry—stood out among the sides.

Diskin’s touch is never heavy, even on his menu’s signature beef treatment, a chili-rubbed flat-iron steak (a fancy name for trimmed top blade chuck roast, a name which wouldn’t fetch anything like premium prices). The meat is coarse-grained but flavorful, especially with its crust of ground red pepper, which bites without bruising the taste buds. This is the one dish on the menu that’s ready to stand up to a big-bodied wine, including the Cline Zinfandel we brought.

By general acclamation, the best entrée we sampled was a half-chicken in a reduction of pan juices, a concentrated jolt of chicken essence fortified with the caramelized overtones of roasted carrots and onions. This is one of the rare chicken dishes that makes ordering America’s most overexposed main course taste new again.

Appetizers weren’t as uniformly dazzling. Duck salad featured appealingly chewy confit and fresh greens, but was dominated by the light, flaky pastry that topped it. A smoked salmon tart was balanced better, mixing the strong fish with a firm dose of capers. Perhaps best—and perhaps not coincidentally, the closest to its peasant roots—was a bowl of hearty potato-leek soup.

A few of the side dishes that come with entrées are also offered a la carte. None is better than a thick, rich creamy polenta that’s almost as rich as dessert. The other choices include ramekins of tangy macaroni and cheese, baked to a perfect crust, and a risotto—a more austere, less creamy interpretation than many, but overflowing with peas and chunks of diced butternut squash. Unfortunately, customers can’t substitute one side dish for another, something the menu warns, but something I’d failed to notice until I asked.

What I wanted to avoid was the one side dish I didn’t care for—indeed, the only dish of the meal that left me unimpressed: the garlic mashed potatoes. The term is almost a misnomer. Diskin does them in a nouvelle French style, puréed rather than mashed. They are just a tad firmer, in fact, than a soup. This is a nouveau French style made popular by Joel Robuchon, but I still prefer a homier, drier style, the kind of whipped potatoes that hold peaks. That might not mingle well with the French influence of the main courses, but would beat this rich, yet bland version, the rare dish on the menu that comes off as a bit precious.

I’d like to see what Diskin could do if he aimed for homespun potatoes instead of fancy French ones, because his desserts are masterpieces spun from the rough cloth of prosaic classics.

Oh, some of them sound uptown. Crème brûlée might sound and look impressive, but it’s really just egg custard topped with a fire-fused sugar crust—at least it is in Diskin’s version, a rich, sweet mixture served in wider-than-usual cups. The same is true of chocolate cake with a molten center. It’s a high-class version of church-supper fare, sophisticated in its dark-yet-sweet intensity—beyond sinful, beyond devil’s food, more like Satan’s secret stash.

Fruit desserts are more my passion, and Big Fork’s apple crisp ranks with any in the region. It is a concentrated layer of sweet, nicely spiced apples beneath a dense, grainy coating, its depth buoyed by a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Big Fork’s atmosphere is greatly enhanced by experienced waiters who know their jobs. They’re soft-spoken, well versed on the menu and attentive without being overbearing. The lower-level servers were much younger and prone to mistakes such as serving men before women and refilling half-empty glasses of sparkling water with tap from a pitcher. It didn’t spoil the meal, but keep it in mind if you’re the persnickety type.

There’s one more way in which Big Fork might be an apt name. Like the rugged terrain around Yellowstone, the restaurant feels as if it’s still a little wild, not yet fully formed. As Diskin expands his repertoire, the place could become a gem for wine-lovers, who are always looking for food equal to the challenge of their best bottles. All it would take is a little more red meat on the menu—lamb, venison, maybe even some buffalo. 

D

 

 

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Cost: $10 on Thursday night; free the rest of the weekend

Where:
Hockessin Memorial Hall
610 Yorklyn Road
Hockessin, DE
View map »


Sponsor: Friends of the Hockessin Library
Website »

More information

CCArts Winter class registrations are open   The Center for the Creative Arts presents its Winter 2019 class and workshop offerings. With over 50 classes and workshops there is...

Cost: 0.00

Where:
410 Upper Snuff Mill Row
410 Upper Snuff Mill Row
Hockessin, DE  19736
View map »


Telephone: 302-239-2434
Contact Name: Nicole Schmid
Website »

More information

Winter Group Show  A rotating group show featuring an eclectic mix of artwork including paintings, drawings, ceramics, art glass and jewelry. Custom Framing and Gift Certificates are always...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

For more than 90 years, the Delaware Art Museum has showcased contemporary craft by artists working locally and throughout the region. The Museum’s first juried Contemporary Crafts Show was...

Cost: Free for members. Included in Museum admission fee for non-members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

Pre-Raphaelite painter and women’s rights campaigner Barbara Leigh Smith Bodichon (1827–1891) was an early female participant in the Pre-Raphaelite movement. Landscape was Bodichon’s...

Cost: Free for members. Included in Museum admission fee for non-members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

NEW HEIGHTS Erica Loustau  January 11 - December 11, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, January 11, 2019  7 - 9 PM Seeking to engage the unused space of our atrium lobby, artist...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466
Website »

More information

IN BETWEEN THEREShelley Thorstensen November 24, 2018 - March 17, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, December 7 | 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop For her first solo exhibition in Delaware,...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

A SENSE OF PLACE 47°-80° N Bethany Springer January 16 - May 12, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, February 1, 2019 | 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop A Sense of Place 47° - 80°...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466
Website »

More information

THE FAR IS NEAR Graham Dougherty & Ruth Ansel January 5 - 31, 2019 Opening reception: January 11  | 7 - 9 PM Graham Dougherty  ”We give shape...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

It’s almost game time, and we’re comin’ atcha with a touchdown of a to-go special! Get two hand-tossed pizzas, two orders of wood-fired wings (20 wings total) and two 32 oz....

Cost: $40.00

Where:
Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats
320 Rehoboth Ave.
Rehoboth Beach, DE  19971
View map »


Website »

More information

HALF : HALF A Draper Experiment by Willie Yao January 4 -  February 24, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, February 1 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop The Delaware Contemporary...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

Schedule a private group tour followed by lunch or dinner with a historic, revolutionary war era presentation.* Ideal for conferences, corporate meetings, special interest groups. $25 per...

Cost: $25–$45

Where:
The University and Whist Club
805 N Broom St
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Sponsor: The University and Whist Club
Telephone: 302-658-5125
Contact Name: Stacey Inglis
Website »

More information

ORIGINS Rick Rothrock & Stan Smokler January 8 - April 22, 2019 Special Reception: Friday, January 11, 2019  5:30 - 7:30 PM Artist Talk | 6:30 PM The Delaware Contemporary...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

Delve deep into the watercolors and biography of Barbara Bodichon on a tour with Curator Margaretta Frederick. 

Cost: Free with Museum admission.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

The Connected Series engages local creative community members to produce art-based programs at the Museum. Join us for appetizers, cash bar, and short introduction to the Connected Series followed...

Cost: Free

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

Three times James Beard Best Chef Semi-Finalist to cook at The Whist! LIMITED seating. Owner of a(MUSE) and Grampa(MAC) in Rehoboth, DE. Five to six courses with chef-selected wine pairings. The...

Cost: $200/person

Where:
The University and Whist Club
805 N. Broom St.
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-5125
Contact Name: Stacey Inglis
Website »

More information

By Michael Gotch Directed by Mark Lamos Stung by personal, political, and economic setbacks, a young, urban couple build an off-the-grid, tiny house in an isolated mountain paradise…or so they...

Cost: 15-32

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Telephone: 302-831-2204
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

More than 50,000 books for sale!  Thurs., 1/24 from 5 PM to 9 PM Friends Members Only (membership available at the door for $10)  Fri., 1/25 from 9 AM to 9 PM  Sat.,...

Cost: $10 on Thursday night; free the rest of the weekend

Where:
Hockessin Memorial Hall
610 Yorklyn Road
Hockessin, DE
View map »


Sponsor: Friends of the Hockessin Library
Website »

More information

CCArts Winter class registrations are open   The Center for the Creative Arts presents its Winter 2019 class and workshop offerings. With over 50 classes and workshops there is...

Cost: 0.00

Where:
410 Upper Snuff Mill Row
410 Upper Snuff Mill Row
Hockessin, DE  19736
View map »


Telephone: 302-239-2434
Contact Name: Nicole Schmid
Website »

More information

Winter Group Show  A rotating group show featuring an eclectic mix of artwork including paintings, drawings, ceramics, art glass and jewelry. Custom Framing and Gift Certificates are always...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

IN BETWEEN THEREShelley Thorstensen November 24, 2018 - March 17, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, December 7 | 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop For her first solo exhibition in Delaware,...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

NEW HEIGHTS Erica Loustau  January 11 - December 11, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, January 11, 2019  7 - 9 PM Seeking to engage the unused space of our atrium lobby, artist...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466
Website »

More information

THE FAR IS NEAR Graham Dougherty & Ruth Ansel January 5 - 31, 2019 Opening reception: January 11  | 7 - 9 PM Graham Dougherty  ”We give shape...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

Pre-Raphaelite painter and women’s rights campaigner Barbara Leigh Smith Bodichon (1827–1891) was an early female participant in the Pre-Raphaelite movement. Landscape was Bodichon’s...

Cost: Free for members. Included in Museum admission fee for non-members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

A SENSE OF PLACE 47°-80° N Bethany Springer January 16 - May 12, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, February 1, 2019 | 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop A Sense of Place 47° - 80°...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466
Website »

More information

For more than 90 years, the Delaware Art Museum has showcased contemporary craft by artists working locally and throughout the region. The Museum’s first juried Contemporary Crafts Show was...

Cost: Free for members. Included in Museum admission fee for non-members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

Glory of Stories introduces young visitors to art and the Museum through a story reading followed by an interactive tour of relevant works of art and a studio art project. This program encourages...

Cost: Free to Members, $5 per child and one adult free for Non-Members

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

Glory of Stories introduces young visitors to art and the Museum through discovery, exploration, and hands-on experiences.Ages 2 and up. Visit delart.org for list of books. ...

Cost: Free to Members, $5 per child and one adult free for Non-Members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

It’s almost game time, and we’re comin’ atcha with a touchdown of a to-go special! Get two hand-tossed pizzas, two orders of wood-fired wings (20 wings total) and two 32 oz....

Cost: $40.00

Where:
Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats
320 Rehoboth Ave.
Rehoboth Beach, DE  19971
View map »


Website »

More information

HALF : HALF A Draper Experiment by Willie Yao January 4 -  February 24, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, February 1 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop The Delaware Contemporary...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

Schedule a private group tour followed by lunch or dinner with a historic, revolutionary war era presentation.* Ideal for conferences, corporate meetings, special interest groups. $25 per...

Cost: $25–$45

Where:
The University and Whist Club
805 N Broom St
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Sponsor: The University and Whist Club
Telephone: 302-658-5125
Contact Name: Stacey Inglis
Website »

More information

ORIGINS Rick Rothrock & Stan Smokler January 8 - April 22, 2019 Special Reception: Friday, January 11, 2019  5:30 - 7:30 PM Artist Talk | 6:30 PM The Delaware Contemporary...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

By Michael Gotch Directed by Mark Lamos Stung by personal, political, and economic setbacks, a young, urban couple build an off-the-grid, tiny house in an isolated mountain paradise…or so they...

Cost: 15-32

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Telephone: 302-831-2204
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

More than 50,000 books for sale!  Thurs., 1/24 from 5 PM to 9 PM Friends Members Only (membership available at the door for $10)  Fri., 1/25 from 9 AM to 9 PM  Sat.,...

Cost: $10 on Thursday night; free the rest of the weekend

Where:
Hockessin Memorial Hall
610 Yorklyn Road
Hockessin, DE
View map »


Sponsor: Friends of the Hockessin Library
Website »

More information

Winter Group Show  A rotating group show featuring an eclectic mix of artwork including paintings, drawings, ceramics, art glass and jewelry. Custom Framing and Gift Certificates are always...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

CCArts Winter class registrations are open   The Center for the Creative Arts presents its Winter 2019 class and workshop offerings. With over 50 classes and workshops there is...

Cost: 0.00

Where:
410 Upper Snuff Mill Row
410 Upper Snuff Mill Row
Hockessin, DE  19736
View map »


Telephone: 302-239-2434
Contact Name: Nicole Schmid
Website »

More information

Pre-Raphaelite painter and women’s rights campaigner Barbara Leigh Smith Bodichon (1827–1891) was an early female participant in the Pre-Raphaelite movement. Landscape was Bodichon’s...

Cost: Free for members. Included in Museum admission fee for non-members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

For more than 90 years, the Delaware Art Museum has showcased contemporary craft by artists working locally and throughout the region. The Museum’s first juried Contemporary Crafts Show was...

Cost: Free for members. Included in Museum admission fee for non-members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

IN BETWEEN THEREShelley Thorstensen November 24, 2018 - March 17, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, December 7 | 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop For her first solo exhibition in Delaware,...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

NEW HEIGHTS Erica Loustau  January 11 - December 11, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, January 11, 2019  7 - 9 PM Seeking to engage the unused space of our atrium lobby, artist...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466
Website »

More information

A SENSE OF PLACE 47°-80° N Bethany Springer January 16 - May 12, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, February 1, 2019 | 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop A Sense of Place 47° - 80°...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466
Website »

More information

THE FAR IS NEAR Graham Dougherty & Ruth Ansel January 5 - 31, 2019 Opening reception: January 11  | 7 - 9 PM Graham Dougherty  ”We give shape...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

Schedule a private group tour followed by lunch or dinner with a historic, revolutionary war era presentation.* Ideal for conferences, corporate meetings, special interest groups. $25 per...

Cost: $25–$45

Where:
The University and Whist Club
805 N Broom St
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Sponsor: The University and Whist Club
Telephone: 302-658-5125
Contact Name: Stacey Inglis
Website »

More information

It’s almost game time, and we’re comin’ atcha with a touchdown of a to-go special! Get two hand-tossed pizzas, two orders of wood-fired wings (20 wings total) and two 32 oz....

Cost: $40.00

Where:
Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats
320 Rehoboth Ave.
Rehoboth Beach, DE  19971
View map »


Website »

More information

HALF : HALF A Draper Experiment by Willie Yao January 4 -  February 24, 2019 Opening Reception: Friday, February 1 5 - 9 PM during Art Loop The Delaware Contemporary...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

ORIGINS Rick Rothrock & Stan Smokler January 8 - April 22, 2019 Special Reception: Friday, January 11, 2019  5:30 - 7:30 PM Artist Talk | 6:30 PM The Delaware Contemporary...

Cost: FREE

Where:
The Delaware Contemporary
200 South Madison Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
View map »


Telephone: 130-265-66466

More information

Mr. Nathan Avakian from New York City will be performing on the 4th Largest Theatre Pipe Organ in the world  selections of comtemporary popular music along with Broadway and...

Cost: $20 Adults, $12.00 Students under 21

Where:
The Dickinson Theatre at John Dickinson High Schoo
1801 Milltown Road
Wilmington, DE, DE  19808
View map »


Sponsor: The Dickinson Theatre Organ Society
Telephone: 302-995-5630
Contact Name: Bob Dilworth
Website »

More information

By Michael Gotch Directed by Mark Lamos Stung by personal, political, and economic setbacks, a young, urban couple build an off-the-grid, tiny house in an isolated mountain paradise…or so they...

Cost: 15-32

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Telephone: 302-831-2204
Website »

More information

This workshop will explore using pieces to create a larger whole. Using multiple small and simple objects, students will stack, hang, layer, or weave them into a larger sculptural...

Cost: $55 Members, $70 Non-Members.

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

More information

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