Whatever the fishermen caught today is what Grove Restaurant is serving tonight. Locals will line up to try it. It wasn’t always this way. When the Grove started serving dinner in 1993—it was a steamed crab retail operation that didn’t pay the bills—chef John McDonald created his horseradish crust, which he used on flounder, rockfish, mahi-mahi, whatever was fresh. The crust, made with bread, egg wash and horseradish, was an instant hit, and continues to be the most ordered dish. Once The Washington Post reporters discovered the eight-table Grove, the tiny shack became a major joint. But it stayed small, allowing staffers to attend to every detail. That explains why every single scallop is juicy, sweet and plump. If you want fancy, the Grove isn’t for you. There are plastic chairs. If you want fresh fish, be patient. Your table will be ready eventually.