Delaware Today magazine Savor dining review: A review by dining critic Matt Amis of Just Hooked, a restaurant in Fenwick Island owned by Steven Hagen
Totally Hooked: Just Hooked brings a familiar but delicious formula to Fenwick.
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In cases like these, too much of a good thing isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but some added variety in the menu could go a long way. Perhaps tellingly, it was the few non-fish items that left the most lasting impressions. Like the succulent braised beef short ribs, which glided over homemade parpadelle pasta in a rich and homey stew that succeeded at the neat trick of being creamy without any cream. Sturdy and robust beef flavor stood tall against the dry, tannic hint of red wine, while garlic confit and shaved Parmesan applied the punctuation note.
Hooked’s flatbread was another marvel. A gently sweet sauce, made from peak-season summer tomatoes, easily outpaced that of most pizzerias. Slices, topped with pancetta, goat cheese, garlic and melty leeks vanished in a messy huff. I considered ordering a jumbo pie to-go.
One night, I actually did take home a box of key lime pie, because I remembered how amazingly dense and luscious it was at Off the Hook. Desserts are another consistent strength of the Hooked family, and the restaurants share most of the selections, like dark “truffle” terrine, a buxom block of chocolate sprinkled in sea salt.
With food this good, and this easy to perfect, fans have no choice but to clamor for another sequel. Might I suggest “Hooked 3: Return of the Flatbread”?