Delaware Today magazine Savor dining review: A review by dining critic Matt Amis of Just Hooked, a restaurant in Fenwick Island owned by Steven Hagen
Totally Hooked: Just Hooked brings a familiar but delicious formula to Fenwick.
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But lo-fi food carries certain risks, and when flavors become too subtle, they can practically disappear. A chilled bundle of crab Louie, paired with fresh-tasting but innocuous cucumbers and arugula, offered faint citrus notes, but little else in the way of secondary flavor. A house-made Thousand Island left but a faint impression. Meaty P.E.I. mussels (including the single largest mussel I have ever seen) flexed considerable depth of flavor, but didn’t jibe with a mostly tepid pool of lemongrass, ginger, bok choy and lemon juice. Worse still, the coveted dipping bread was burnt solid.
Crab bisque staged a much more successful marriage of flavors, by way of its deft interplay of corn and jalapeno, the latter of which lurks in the background and delivers a spicy shove when you least expect it. Together the ingredients synthesized a smoky-sweet blanket that wrapped around substantial threads of crabmeat.
The kitchen knows it can never misfire on such killer combinations, and sometimes skates a thin line between reliable and formulaic.
Consider blackened mahi mahi: rubbed gently in tangy spices and served on grilled corn and scallions, smoky bacon and cheddar grits. It was, essentially, the same dish as the seared scallops, served with grilled corn, scallions, crispy chorizo and cheddar grits. They’re equally delicious—but hadn’t I seen this movie before?
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