Savor: The Review, Too: A Canal Classic

The Chesapeake Inn offers a taste of two worlds in more ways than one.



The Chesapeake inn Restaurant
605 Second St.

Chesapeake City, Md.

(410) 885-2040

www.chesapeakeinn.com


Pork rib chop stuffed with fontina and sage served with a chutney of apples and cranberries (foreground) and rack of New Zealand lamb with blackberry-Cabernet demi glace, shallots and mushrooms (background).
photograph by Tom Nutter

The Chesapeake Inn Restaurant & Marina might be the closest incarnation to a beach restaurant this side of, well, the beach. The waterfront deck features casual dining and a hot bar scene, while the indoor restaurant offers a more formal experience, complete with attentive servers in tuxedoes, yacht club-like appointments and a pianist who plays a mean medley of Led Zeppelin songs.

We watched beer-sipping revelers below from our window seats on the restaurant’s second story. The view of the C&D Canal put us in the mood for some Maryland-style seafood—something the Chesapeake Inn aptly delivers.

Crab bisque was the perfect starter. Executive chef Matthew Schafenberg, who returned to the Inn last year, gently simmers a mirepoix—a mixture of diced carrots, onions, celery and herbs—until the ingredients cook down to become one. It is this savory stuff that gives the bisque its body. It also imparts a gorgeous coral color that contrasts nicely with the snowy crab lumps heaped in the center.

Schafenberg, who for two years owned 865 in Dover, has long been an appetizer aficionado. Novelties include roast duck crepes, lobster macaroni and cheese, and lobster spring rolls—four crisp packages bulging with slivers of zucchini, carrots and lobster chunks.

A refreshing crab and avocado martini, spritzed with a citrus-honey vinaigrette, was sweet and clean tasting.

Keeping with our penchant for classics, we went for plump shrimp wearing a tidy bacon cummerbund and crabmeat nesting in mushrooms so meaty, they were practically appetizers. Clams casino offered the requisite blend of finely diced red and green peppers with a dusting of breadcrumbs. The dash of lemon, however, was too heavy-handed.

The restaurant is famous for its crab cakes, and with good reason. The 4-ounce beauties are pan seared to a golden brown, their crusty flesh yielding to reveal fat lumps that gently cling together.

Stuffed flounder was a shining tribute to the great dishes of the past, and it demonstrates why crab imperial deserves a comeback. (If it can happen to iceberg lettuce, it can happen to crab imperial.) The flounder, fresh and flaky, had a subtle sweetness, thanks to its delicate lobster sauce.

I only wish I’d been half as thrilled with the Maryland rockfish, which tasted so flat I could only manage a few bites. Not even the pretty show of tomatoes, fresh basil and crabmeat could enliven it.

Despite my initial cravings, my favorite dish had nothing to do with the sea—or the bay, for that matter. A juicy New York strip, wearing attractive grill stripes and a tight curl of ivory fat, was first rate.

Sprinkled with black peppercorns, the steak’s crowning touch was an earthy pat of Gorgonzola butter, which melted into the meat’s rosy juices. We mixed and matched with the crab cakes to create a tasty surf and turf.

The restaurant is owned by the Martuscelli family, which also owns the popular La Casa Pasta in Newark. This would explain the Italian flag flying outside and why the restaurant offers a generous show of Italian-inspired entrées, including bruschetta, veal topped with crabmeat and at least seven pasta dishes.

D

Two Degrees of Georges Perrier

The famed Philly chef's influence is so vast, it even touched Delaware. Here’s how.



Georges Perrier

When Georges Perrier opened Le Bec-Fin in 1970, he blasted the Philly scene like a hurricane. Today the infamously perfectionistic Perrier is, according to Condé Nast Traveler, “a living monument.” Perrier may be the storm that never calms, but even he has gotten by with a little help from his friends in Delaware.



photograph by John Lewis

Jacques Amblard, general manager, The Inn at Montchanin Village

When Mobil busted Le Bec Fin from five stars down to four in 2000, Perrier flipped. He then hired good friend and longtime Hotel du Pont manager Amblard—who, in the late ’80s, had bailed the hotel out of a lost star through a $35 million transformation—to help win it back. Eighteen months and $500,000 in renovations later, Amblard and team succeeded. When he left the hotel for The Inn at Montchanin Village, Travel & Leisure quickly noticed, then last year rated it as the world’s best hotel for $250.

Amblard on Perrier: “It is very unknown that Georges has such a big heart. Unfortunately, when he applies the role of leadership, he does not come across that way.”

Perrier on Amblard: “Jacques put structure back in the restaurant. You cannot be successful without structure. He was extremely helpful, and he’s a very good friend.”


Mickey Donatello, owner, Corner Bistro

When Perrier traded tennis for golf after spraining his ankle, Amblard introduced him to Donatello, then golf pro at the DuPont Country Club. Perrier was no Tiger, but with Donatello’s help, he got better. That was 2002. A year later, Donatello opened Corner Bistro. Perrier shared trade secrets, helped with menus—even cooked a few meals. Donatello occasionally serves Perrier’s coq au vin, and Perrier’s pistou still factors into Corner Bistro’s salmon dishes.

Donatello on Perrier: “With Georges, you either do the work or you don’t. We’ve traveled, eaten and golfed together. He is one of the sweetest, nicest people I’ve ever met.”

Perrier on Donatello: “Mickey is passionate. He’s smart. He’s not afraid to try things. I tried to advise him, but he already has a great restaurant. I love him. And he’s a smart golfer.”


Greg Moore, president, Moore Brothers Wine Company

Moore was general manager and sommelier at Le Bec Fin for 10 years, where he learned enough about wine from Perrier to open the first Moore Brothers Wine Company store in Pennsauken, New Jersey, in 1996. Moore also inherited his former boss’ high standards. He buys wine only from farmers who grow their own grapes.

Moore on Perrier: “You want to talk authentic? At Le Bec Fin, we got the veal bones and took the marrow out ourselves. It was never canned truffle peelings. You didn’t have fake black caviar. None of those crazy canned snails. Georges is disarmingly generous and excessively demanding, except that he never demands more than he would do himself.”

Perrier on Moore: “Greg is extremely brilliant about wine. Where there is wine, there is very good lifestyle. When he worked for me, he gave me so much that I knew he would be very successful.”

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January 2017

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
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Sports Card & Collectible Show at Aetna Fire Hall on Jan. 22—sign up now! -Sports Cards McFarlane Figures Comic Books Non-Sports cards Wrestling Items Vintage Starting...

Cost: $2

Where:
Aetna Fire Hall
400 Ogletown Road
Newark, DE  19711
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Sponsor: A2Z Promotions
Telephone: 302-983-2636
Contact Name: Bob Harper
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The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
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Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
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Belly Dance Classes with Zahra Beginner & intermediate classes open to teens and adults Sundays in January starting Jan 8th Beginner: 2:30-3:30 p.m. Intermediate: 1 - 2 p.m (must get...

Cost: $15-$42

Where:
Take the Lead Studio
320 Lantana Drive
Hockessin , DE  19711
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Sponsor: Take the Lead
Contact Name: Zahra
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The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
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Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
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Ah, typecasting—the baritone is always the bad guy! In Devils, Drunks & Dastardly Dudes, we’ll go on an operatic journey of men behaving badly. We’ll add a tenor to the mix, too… but we...

Cost: $29-$59

Where:
OperaDelaware Studio
4 South Poplar St.
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Sponsor: OperaDelaware
Telephone: 302-442-7809
Contact Name: Mary Wilcosky
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Come give curling a try! At this 2-hour intro-to-curling event we'll provide a basic lesson then coach you through a mini-game.  Whether you just want to cross #curling off your bucket list or...

Cost: $35

Where:
The Pond Ice Arena
101 John Campbell Rd
Newark, DE  19711
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January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

Notbybreadalone Ministries presents Feeding the Hungry Outreach. All are welcome to come and partake of food, fun and fellowship. Those who desire a better way of life through Jesus Christ are...

Cost: Free

Where:
2nd and 3rd Streets
Wilmington, DE  19801


Sponsor: Notbybreadalone Outreach Ministries
Telephone: 442-0440
Contact Name: Ministers Wayne and Stephanie Dumpson
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Guest speakers Patty Dailey-Lewis, executive director of the Beau Biden Foundation, and Delaware Family Court commissioner Loretta Young will discuss how participation in social media can too...

Cost: Free

Where:
Wilmington University - Dover
Building A Auditorium
3282 N DuPont Highway
Dover, DE  19901
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Sponsor: Wilmington University College of Social & Behavioral Sciences
Telephone: 302-295-1164
Contact Name: Dr. Johanna Bishop
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January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9:30AM-12:00PM Fall session: Thursday, Dec 1st thru Thursday, December 15th Winter session: Tuesday, January 17th thru Thursday, March 30th   Drop in on Nature is...

Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
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Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
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East Coast Garden Center Indoor Farmers Market Nov 8, 2016 - April 11, 2017  11 am- 2 pm 25 vendors Location:  East Coast Garden Center 30366 Cordrey Rd Millsboro, DE 19966 302-945-3489

Cost: frr

Where:
East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
Millsboro, DE  19966
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Sponsor: East Coast Garden Center
Telephone: 302-945-3489
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East Coast Garden Center Indoor Farmer's Marke 25 vendors

Cost: Free

Where:
East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
Millsboro, DE  19966
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Telephone: 302-945-3489
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The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

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A four-week series of ballroom dancing classes taught by teachers from the BlueBallroom. Tuesdays starting Jan. 10. Classes are $30 a lesson for Non-Members. Non-Member slots are limited. For...

Cost: $30

Where:
University and Whist Club
805 N Broom St
Wilmington, DE  19806
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January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

The Rehoboth Beach Film Society announces the next play in the exciting series of National Theatre Live screenings. National Theatre Live is a groundbreaking project that presents the best of...

Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9:30AM-12:00PM Fall session: Thursday, Dec 1st thru Thursday, December 15th Winter session: Tuesday, January 17th thru Thursday, March 30th   Drop in on Nature is...

Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
View map »


Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
Website »

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Thursdays from 4:00PM-5:30PM Fall session: December 1st, 8th and 15th Winter session: Starts January 19th, every other Thursday until March 30th This program is based entirely outdoors and is...

Cost: Cost: $30 for TLC members / $40 for non-members

Where:
Bucktoe Creek Preserve
432 Sharp Rd
Avondale, PA  19311
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Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
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MARC BROUSSARD In 2004, Marc Broussard, then a precocious 22-year-old singer/songwriter, released his major-label debut; he called it Carencro, after the Louisiana town where he was born and...

Cost: $22 SRO- $32 SEATED

Where:
World Cafe Live Wilmington
500 N Market St
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Telephone: 215-222-1400
Contact Name: MP Intern
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The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

Show More...
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January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Tutto Fresco has live entertainment every Friday night from 6:30–9:30 p.m. Call for details. http://tuttofrescode.com/

Where:
Tutto Fresco
514 Philadelphia Pike
Wilmington, DE  19809
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More information

The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

Meeting every Friday, Bayhealth Kent General Hospital, 640 s. State Street, Dover, 7:30 pm., Private Dining Room #3 in the basement. For those who have, or think they may have a gambling problem....

Cost: 0.00

Where:
Bayhealth Kent General Hospital
640 S. State Street
Private Dining Room #3
Dover, DE  19901
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Telephone: 800-855-2CALLGA
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Cost: $12-$20

Where:
Wilmington Drama League
10 West Lea Blvd.
Wilmington, DE  19802
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Sponsor: Wilmington Drama League
Telephone: 302-764-3396
Contact Name: Kathy Buterbaugh
Website »

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January 3 - 28  “Winter Group Show” Rotating Group Show features a variety of art in different styles and media. Custom Framing & Gift Certificates are always available. Gallery Hours:...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

January 28 – Saturday – 1 to 4 p.m. Science Saturday – Truss Me, You Won’t Fall! Become an engineer for the day. Design a bridge to hold as much weight as possible....

Cost: Activities are included in regular admission and free for members.

Where:
Hagley Museum
201 Hagley Creek Road
Wilmington, DE  19807
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Sponsor: Hagley Museum
Telephone: (302) 65802400 x 238
Contact Name: Jessica Eisenbrey
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The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

GRILLED CHEESE AND CRAFT BEER TASTING We have taken two of the best things on earth and paired them together – Grilled Cheese and Craft Beer – and paired them together in unexpected and...

Cost: $40

Where:
World Cafe Live Wilmington
500 N Market St
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Telephone: 215-222-1400
Contact Name: MP Intern
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Saturday, January 28, 2017 at  7:30 pm at St. David’s Episcopal Church, 763 Valley Forge Rd, Wayne, PA 19087 Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 3 pm at Church of the Holy Trinity, Rittenhouse Square...

Cost: Tickets are $25 online, and $30 at the door. Student tickets $10 at the door.

Where:
Church of the Holy Trinity
1904 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA  19103
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Sponsor: Lyric Fest
Telephone: 215-438-1702
Contact Name: Jessica Nelson
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Fan favorite, Dick Smith, returns to the Dickinson Theatre Organ Society concert stage on Saturday, Jan. 28, 2017 for a show that is sure to bring the house down! Dick Smith has been a...

Cost: $15 Adults; $10 Students

Where:
John Dickinson High School Auditorium
1801 Milltown Road
Wilmington, DE  19808
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Sponsor: Dickinson Theatre Organ Society
Telephone: 302-995-2603
Contact Name: Bob Dilworth
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The Dickinson Theatre Organ Society presents Dick Smith. For tickets, click here: http://www.dtoskimball.org/events-tickets/ticket-information/ For further information, please call us at...

Where:
, DE

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The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Bells by Theresa Rebeck. During the great Yukon gold rush of the...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
View map »


Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
Website »

More information

Cost: $12-$20

Where:
Wilmington Drama League
10 West Lea Blvd.
Wilmington, DE  19802
View map »


Sponsor: Wilmington Drama League
Telephone: 302-764-3396
Contact Name: Kathy Buterbaugh
Website »

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MOTHERSHIP Mothership is the area's premier Led Zeppelin Tribute show. Composed of seasoned, professional musicians Mario Padovani - vocals, keyboards, Frank Ginocchio - drums, Chris Julian -...

Cost: 15

Where:
World Cafe Live Wilmington
500 N Market St
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Telephone: 215-222-1400
Website »

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