The Bramble & Brine Breaks into Rehoboth Restaurant Scene

Owners Joe and Megan Churchman posses reverence for the past, present and the future of culinary excellence.


Published:

The Bramble & Brine’s seared scallops and clam entrée is served in a roasted lobster broth.

The Bramble & Brine

315 Rehoboth Avenue, Rehoboth Beach, 227-7702
Recommended dishes: Ribeye crown, smoked duck with gnocchi, porchetta, veal sweetbreads, cured duck platter
Prices: Beginnings $9-$13, Mains $23-$34

Joe and Megan Churchman have become unstuck in time[1].

Or maybe that’s just the simplest way to explain The Bramble & Brine, a place that defies the conventions of time and space, warps the sensibilities of old and new, and somehow emerges from the wormhole as one of Rehoboth Beach’s best and most intriguing new restaurants.

To wit: These proprietors are fresh-faced Gen-Y’ers—Joe is 29; Megan, 28—and both own the sort of breezy smiles and dimpled features that make them appear even younger. But haven’t these two been around forever?

For more than a decade, chef Joe has jumped between a half-dozen of the beach area’s finest restaurants,[2] weaving his self-taught chops and reverence for old-world cooking into soulful, slowly-bubbled duck ragouts, pork roasts, and heavenly homemade pastas. Megan, meanwhile, is part owner of Poor Little Rich Girl, the Shirley Temple-referencing boutique tucked into Rehoboth Mews, where vintage clothes, accessories and housewares—the spoils of estates sale and online auction prospecting—are sold.

Husband and wife each possess an uncommon reverence for the past, and relish the opportunity to blend it with creative, modernly mindful whims. Together, they time warp again. It only adds to the wonder that is Bramble & Brine.

In the cozy dining room, awash in antique typewriters, heirloom portraiture, mirrors and reliefs, ornate chandeliers emit a dim, tranquilizing glow, as Lime Rickeys and Old-Fashioneds zip by on the hands of handlebar-mustachioed servers. An unseen Victrola[3] hisses and pops through jazz and Big Band standards, and as you sit holding the silver-plated flatware and half-expect an interjection from President Hoover about the latest in egg creams and stick ball.

The place must be a century old, right? Maybe it’s always been here. Not quite, Megan Churchman says.

The Churchmans purchased the former South Pacific flower shop last spring, gutted the insides and refaced it completely. Today, the building’s second floor is their home.

“What we’re trying to evoke is a dinner party,” she says. “Anybody can sell food. We wanted it to be more of an experience, like I’m taking you to my place for dinner.”

A comforting aura of culture and atmosphere, mixed with a healthy dose of nostalgia is the result. (“When people come in they say it feels like they’re visiting their grandparents’ house,” Megan says with a laugh. “I’m still not sure how to take that.”)

For all of Megan’s antique acumen and atmosphere-building, it’s Joe’s cooking that gives Bramble & Brine its heartbeat. When Churchman hits his mark, a lofty nexus of rustic Italian, modern American, and traditional mid-Atlantic coastal cuisine, the results can be transcendent.

He’s already proven to me that he can play the duck like Django Reinhardt played the guitar, with an almost uncanny mastery of what can be such a difficult protein to wield. At Bramble & Brine, he commanded the lean, easily overlycooked meat, and the bounteous and treacherous subcutaneous fat expertly. Atop a hill of impossibly tender, cheese-blasted and butter-basted gnocchi, slices of cumin-rubbed duck breast, its skin blistered and blackened and perfectly complementing the soft and twangy meat.

Delicious but conventional sliced duck breast was just the warmup. Churchman’s victory lap was his cured duck platter—a dizzying array of molecularly altered duck parts, and so far, the best thing I’ve eaten in 2014.

From rounds of duck mortadella, perfectly emulsified and speckled with fat and fragrant spices, to the scalpel-thin slices of silky and unctuous duck prosciutto, Churchman’s transforming of a familiar ingredient was thrilling. Best still was the “aerated” foie gras, a miracle marriage of classic technique and molecular gastronomy that renders rich foie gras terrine into a fluffy, velvety cloud. By whipping air into it, vacuum-suspending, and freezing everything in place (plus about 64 other steps I’m omitting), Chuchman creates something that looks like coral reef, but tastes like, well, foie gras cotton candy. The odd kumquat slice, pickled mustard seed, or balsamic drizzle, scattered around the plate, helped interrupt the richness.

Those same wiles went into matching scallion and turnip “kimchi” with the melty interior hunks of fried veal shortbreads. Churchman’s ode to the Korean staple[4] perked a vibrant and crunchy rejoinder to the rich sweetbreads, and the veggies’ chile-coated bite was another in a parade of bold, assertive flavors.

The briny, sea-salt pop of sturgeon caviar galvanized clean-tasting poached lobster medallions and a thicket of enoki mushrooms, which also sopped up exotic mushroom dust and curry-kissed beurre blanc. Juicy rib-eye deckle—tastefully rebranded at B&B as the “crown” —earned its regal status and reputation as a butcher’s best-kept secret. Juicy and dripping with robust beefy flavor, the crown[5] burst with summery brightness, thanks to a smattering of sautéed sweet corn, roasted baby red onions, red wine verjus, local honey vinaigrette and watercress puree.

For a young chef with so much vision and creativity, Churchman also shows considerable restraint with his menu, which is reprinted daily. The shaved truffles, house-fried chicharróns and any science-driven, avant-garde cookery gets its appropriate corner to shine, but the chef wisely keeps one foot tethered to traditional coastal Delaware dining, turning grilled oysters and seared scallops with the best of them.

A nicely crisped hunk of meaty rockfish was perfectly cooked, but probably needed a sauce. I found the accompanying fritters—little rosebud-shaped dumplings of fried kale and artichoke custard, which tasted tangy and aromatic, and carried a pungent, almost curry-like zip—more exciting anyway.

Churchman saved his homespun best for the porchetta, one of the tenderest and most flavorful versions I’ve encountered. Stuffed with confit garlic and olives and coated in a stubble of roasted fennel seeds, the tenderloin rolls burst with brusque, evocative flavors. Flavors which a woodsy medley of oyster mushrooms, Israeli cous cous, pine nuts, and dried cherries helped reinforce.

By dessert, the kitchen’s old-meets-new motif melted into a delicious refrain, where frozen mud pies, Little Debbie-inspired snack cakes and toasted marshmallows drifted diners into a sugar-induced bliss.

The Churchmans are the sort of Millennials that the old guard is most fearful of. As the pragmatic, multitasking children of the digital age began to infiltrate the American workforce and the needle-moving reaches of society, more like them will follow.

But this couple is anything but typical, and manage the impressive trick of respecting the past while exploring the future. “You can’t forget where you came from,” says Megan. “You can’t forget growing up here or working the broiler at the Summer House when you were 16.”

If Bramble & Brine’s triumphant opening, during which it saw 130 nightly covers,[6] is any indication, those memories are still fresh.


[1] Listen:

[2] Including Eden, JAM Bistro, Planet X, and the dearly departed Venus on the Half Shell, plus Luca in Millsboro. He’s also worked at acclaimed Le Virtù in Philadelphia, whose rustic, Abruzzese-style Italian cuisine seems to have at least partially informed Churchman’s culinary playbook.

[3] Or, more likely, the Artie Shaw Pandora station.

[4] Usually made with napa cabbage.

[5] Deckle is the outer muscle that run around the outside of a center-cut ribeye steak. It takes a skilled hand to rescue from the fat and silverskin that envelops it, and the yield is typically very small—which is why the butcher usually kept it for himself.

[6] During the off-season, no less. 

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January 2018

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Cost: Varies

Where:
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January 2 – 27 Winter Group Show A rotating group show featuring an eclectic mix of artwork including oil paintings, pastels, ornamental boxes, art glass and jewelry. Custom Framing and Gift...

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Telephone: 302-654-8638
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Cost: free

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32034 Long Neck Road
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Telephone: 302-316-0525
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Come join us in celebrating the mission work of the American Heart Association while raising funds to end cardiovascular disease. There will be a live and silent auction, served dinner with wine,...

Cost: $175.00

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
Justinson Street
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Telephone: 302-286-5704
Contact Name: Denise Griffin
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Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE
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Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

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200 Water St.
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, DE  19801
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The Station Gallery
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Telephone: 302-654-8638
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24488 Sussex Highway, Suite 4
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32034 Long Neck Road
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Telephone: 302-316-0525
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More information

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Cost: Varies

Where:
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137 W Knowlton Rd
Media, PA  19063
View map »

More information

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Cost: $175.00

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
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Telephone: 302-286-5704
Contact Name: Denise Griffin
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Cost: $18-$20

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
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View map »


Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

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Cab Calloway School Theatre
100 N DuPont Rd
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Sponsor: DE Theatre Co & Cab Calloway Fund
Telephone: 302-547-4543
Contact Name: Kelly Furman
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Show glides through life of professional figure skater Randy Gardner with help from Tai Babilonia and Dorothy Hamill. Wilmington, DE—“It ain’t no Ice Capades,” Randy...

Where:
200 Water St.
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, DE  19801
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Sponsor: Carolina Millard
Telephone: 302-594-1100, ext. 215

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Cost: free

Where:
Coastal Audiology
32034 Long Neck Road
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Telephone: 302-316-0525
Website »

More information

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Cost: free

Where:
Seaford Audiology
24488 Sussex Highway, Suite 4
Seaford, DE  19973
View map »

More information

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Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
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View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

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Cost: $175.00

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
Justinson Street
Wilmington , DE
View map »


Telephone: 302-286-5704
Contact Name: Denise Griffin
Website »

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Cost: FREE

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Faith Victory Christian Center
301 Commonwealth Avenue
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Sponsor: Faith Victory Christian Center
Telephone: 302.354.6726
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1810 N. Dupont Street
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132 Townsend Hall on UD's South Campus
531 South College Avenue
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Unitarian Universalist Fellowship of Newark
420 Willa Road
Newark, DE  19711
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Sponsor: UUFN
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Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

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Where:
200 Water St.
Wilmington
, DE  19801
View map »


Sponsor: Carolina Millard
Telephone: 302-594-1100, ext. 215

More information

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January 2 – 27 Winter Group Show A rotating group show featuring an eclectic mix of artwork including oil paintings, pastels, ornamental boxes, art glass and jewelry. Custom Framing and Gift...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

On January 23rd, 25th, and 26th Seaford Audiology in Seaford, DE will be providing FREE HEARING SCREENINGS and will have a visiting specialist explaining the LATEST in DIGITAL HEARING TECHNOLOGY! ...

Cost: free

Where:
Seaford Audiology
24488 Sussex Highway, Suite 4
Seaford, DE  19973
View map »

More information

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Cost: $175.00

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
Justinson Street
Wilmington , DE
View map »


Telephone: 302-286-5704
Contact Name: Denise Griffin
Website »

More information

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Cost: FREE

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Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-629-6611 x2428

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More than 50,000 books for sale!  Thursday, 1/26 is for Friends members only ($10 memberships available at the door).  Friday from 9-9; Saturday from 9-5.  On Sunday (9-3), we supply and you...

Cost: $10.00 on Thursday; no cost on Friday, Saturday and Sunday

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610 Yorklyn Road
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University and Whist Club
805 N Broom St
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Sponsor: University and Whist Club
Telephone: 302-658-5125

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Cost: 75.00 per person, plus service fee

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Harry's Savoy Ballroom
2020 Naamans Road
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Sponsor: Harry's Hospitality Group
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Contact Name: Riley Quinn
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The first major retrospective exhibition of John Sloan’s work since 1988, An American Journey explores all facets of the artist’s long career: his work as an illustrator in Philadelphia, his...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
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2301 Kentmere Parkway
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View map »

More information

Show glides through life of professional figure skater Randy Gardner with help from Tai Babilonia and Dorothy Hamill. Wilmington, DE—“It ain’t no Ice Capades,” Randy...

Where:
200 Water St.
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, DE  19801
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Sponsor: Carolina Millard
Telephone: 302-594-1100, ext. 215

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Cost: free

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24488 Sussex Highway, Suite 4
Seaford, DE  19973
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Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
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Telephone: 302-654-8638
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Cost: Free to Members, $5 per child and one adult free for Non-Members

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2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
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Cost: $175.00

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
Justinson Street
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Telephone: 302-286-5704
Contact Name: Denise Griffin
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Cost: $10.00 on Thursday; no cost on Friday, Saturday and Sunday

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Cost: $40 per adult

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Fair Hill NRMA, ED Walls Bldg
300 Tawes Drive
off 273 West of Newark
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Sponsor: Cecil Land Trust
Telephone: 410-441-3717
Contact Name: Beth Burnam
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Cost: 0.00

Where:
Bayhealth Kent General Hospital
640 S. State Street
Private Dining Room #3
Dover, DE  19901
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Telephone: 800-855-2CALLGA
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Cost: $12-$20

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10 West Lea Blvd.
Wilmington, DE  19802
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Sponsor: Wilmington Drama League
Telephone: 302-764-1172
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Show glides through life of professional figure skater Randy Gardner with help from Tai Babilonia and Dorothy Hamill. Wilmington, DE—“It ain’t no Ice Capades,” Randy...

Where:
200 Water St.
Wilmington
, DE  19801
View map »


Sponsor: Carolina Millard
Telephone: 302-594-1100, ext. 215

More information

The first major retrospective exhibition of John Sloan’s work since 1988, An American Journey explores all facets of the artist’s long career: his work as an illustrator in Philadelphia, his...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

January 2 – 27 Winter Group Show A rotating group show featuring an eclectic mix of artwork including oil paintings, pastels, ornamental boxes, art glass and jewelry. Custom Framing and Gift...

Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
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Telephone: 302-654-8638
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Come join us in celebrating the mission work of the American Heart Association while raising funds to end cardiovascular disease. There will be a live and silent auction, served dinner with wine,...

Cost: $175.00

Where:
Chase Center on the Riverfront
Justinson Street
Wilmington , DE
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Telephone: 302-286-5704
Contact Name: Denise Griffin
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Learn about the importance of foundations and structural loads as you build a trophy that supports a ball. Visitors of all ages are invited to discover solutions to science and engineering...

Cost: Free with admission; Adults: $14, Children 6-14: $5, Children 5 and under: Free

Where:
Hagley Museum and Library
200 Hagley Creek Road
Wilmington, DE  19807
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More than 50,000 books for sale!  Thursday, 1/26 is for Friends members only ($10 memberships available at the door).  Friday from 9-9; Saturday from 9-5.  On Sunday (9-3), we supply and you...

Cost: $10.00 on Thursday; no cost on Friday, Saturday and Sunday

Where:
Hockessin Memorial Hall
610 Yorklyn Road
Hockessin, DE  19707
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Rosemary Bailey from San Diego, California is an engaging popular artist in her premier performance at the Dickinson Theatre Organ Society.  She is the consummate musician whose playing ability...

Cost: $20 Adults, $10 Students, Groups Call 302-995-2603

Where:
John Dickinson High School
1801 Miltown Road
Wilmington, DE  19808
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Sponsor: Dickinson Theatre Organ Society
Telephone: 302-995-2603
Contact Name: Bob Dilworth
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The new year brings us "Disaster!" - the epic disaster movie musical spoof, chock full of everyone’s favorite 70’s pop songs.  Shows are at 8pm on January 26 and 27, and February 2 and 3. ...

Cost: $12-$20

Where:
Wilmington Drama League
10 West Lea Blvd.
Wilmington, DE  19802
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Sponsor: Wilmington Drama League
Telephone: 302-764-1172
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This January, ’70s soul crooners The O’Jays, will bring their favorite hits to Philadelphia. The Rock & Roll Hall of Famers will entertain fans with their famous “Philly Soul” sound in the...

Cost: $69-$89

Where:
SugarHouse Casino
1001 N. Delaware Ave
Philadelphia, PA  19125
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The first major retrospective exhibition of John Sloan’s work since 1988, An American Journey explores all facets of the artist’s long career: his work as an illustrator in Philadelphia, his...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
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Show glides through life of professional figure skater Randy Gardner with help from Tai Babilonia and Dorothy Hamill. Wilmington, DE—“It ain’t no Ice Capades,” Randy...

Where:
200 Water St.
Wilmington
, DE  19801
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Sponsor: Carolina Millard
Telephone: 302-594-1100, ext. 215

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