The Bramble & Brine Breaks into Rehoboth Restaurant Scene

Owners Joe and Megan Churchman posses reverence for the past, present and the future of culinary excellence.



The Bramble & Brine’s seared scallops and clam entrée is served in a roasted lobster broth.

The Bramble & Brine

315 Rehoboth Avenue, Rehoboth Beach, 227-7702
Recommended dishes: Ribeye crown, smoked duck with gnocchi, porchetta, veal sweetbreads, cured duck platter
Prices: Beginnings $9-$13, Mains $23-$34

Joe and Megan Churchman have become unstuck in time[1].

Or maybe that’s just the simplest way to explain The Bramble & Brine, a place that defies the conventions of time and space, warps the sensibilities of old and new, and somehow emerges from the wormhole as one of Rehoboth Beach’s best and most intriguing new restaurants.

To wit: These proprietors are fresh-faced Gen-Y’ers—Joe is 29; Megan, 28—and both own the sort of breezy smiles and dimpled features that make them appear even younger. But haven’t these two been around forever?

For more than a decade, chef Joe has jumped between a half-dozen of the beach area’s finest restaurants,[2] weaving his self-taught chops and reverence for old-world cooking into soulful, slowly-bubbled duck ragouts, pork roasts, and heavenly homemade pastas. Megan, meanwhile, is part owner of Poor Little Rich Girl, the Shirley Temple-referencing boutique tucked into Rehoboth Mews, where vintage clothes, accessories and housewares—the spoils of estates sale and online auction prospecting—are sold.

Husband and wife each possess an uncommon reverence for the past, and relish the opportunity to blend it with creative, modernly mindful whims. Together, they time warp again. It only adds to the wonder that is Bramble & Brine.

In the cozy dining room, awash in antique typewriters, heirloom portraiture, mirrors and reliefs, ornate chandeliers emit a dim, tranquilizing glow, as Lime Rickeys and Old-Fashioneds zip by on the hands of handlebar-mustachioed servers. An unseen Victrola[3] hisses and pops through jazz and Big Band standards, and as you sit holding the silver-plated flatware and half-expect an interjection from President Hoover about the latest in egg creams and stick ball.

The place must be a century old, right? Maybe it’s always been here. Not quite, Megan Churchman says.

The Churchmans purchased the former South Pacific flower shop last spring, gutted the insides and refaced it completely. Today, the building’s second floor is their home.

“What we’re trying to evoke is a dinner party,” she says. “Anybody can sell food. We wanted it to be more of an experience, like I’m taking you to my place for dinner.”

A comforting aura of culture and atmosphere, mixed with a healthy dose of nostalgia is the result. (“When people come in they say it feels like they’re visiting their grandparents’ house,” Megan says with a laugh. “I’m still not sure how to take that.”)

For all of Megan’s antique acumen and atmosphere-building, it’s Joe’s cooking that gives Bramble & Brine its heartbeat. When Churchman hits his mark, a lofty nexus of rustic Italian, modern American, and traditional mid-Atlantic coastal cuisine, the results can be transcendent.

He’s already proven to me that he can play the duck like Django Reinhardt played the guitar, with an almost uncanny mastery of what can be such a difficult protein to wield. At Bramble & Brine, he commanded the lean, easily overlycooked meat, and the bounteous and treacherous subcutaneous fat expertly. Atop a hill of impossibly tender, cheese-blasted and butter-basted gnocchi, slices of cumin-rubbed duck breast, its skin blistered and blackened and perfectly complementing the soft and twangy meat.

Delicious but conventional sliced duck breast was just the warmup. Churchman’s victory lap was his cured duck platter—a dizzying array of molecularly altered duck parts, and so far, the best thing I’ve eaten in 2014.

From rounds of duck mortadella, perfectly emulsified and speckled with fat and fragrant spices, to the scalpel-thin slices of silky and unctuous duck prosciutto, Churchman’s transforming of a familiar ingredient was thrilling. Best still was the “aerated” foie gras, a miracle marriage of classic technique and molecular gastronomy that renders rich foie gras terrine into a fluffy, velvety cloud. By whipping air into it, vacuum-suspending, and freezing everything in place (plus about 64 other steps I’m omitting), Chuchman creates something that looks like coral reef, but tastes like, well, foie gras cotton candy. The odd kumquat slice, pickled mustard seed, or balsamic drizzle, scattered around the plate, helped interrupt the richness.

Those same wiles went into matching scallion and turnip “kimchi” with the melty interior hunks of fried veal shortbreads. Churchman’s ode to the Korean staple[4] perked a vibrant and crunchy rejoinder to the rich sweetbreads, and the veggies’ chile-coated bite was another in a parade of bold, assertive flavors.

The briny, sea-salt pop of sturgeon caviar galvanized clean-tasting poached lobster medallions and a thicket of enoki mushrooms, which also sopped up exotic mushroom dust and curry-kissed beurre blanc. Juicy rib-eye deckle—tastefully rebranded at B&B as the “crown” —earned its regal status and reputation as a butcher’s best-kept secret. Juicy and dripping with robust beefy flavor, the crown[5] burst with summery brightness, thanks to a smattering of sautéed sweet corn, roasted baby red onions, red wine verjus, local honey vinaigrette and watercress puree.

For a young chef with so much vision and creativity, Churchman also shows considerable restraint with his menu, which is reprinted daily. The shaved truffles, house-fried chicharróns and any science-driven, avant-garde cookery gets its appropriate corner to shine, but the chef wisely keeps one foot tethered to traditional coastal Delaware dining, turning grilled oysters and seared scallops with the best of them.

A nicely crisped hunk of meaty rockfish was perfectly cooked, but probably needed a sauce. I found the accompanying fritters—little rosebud-shaped dumplings of fried kale and artichoke custard, which tasted tangy and aromatic, and carried a pungent, almost curry-like zip—more exciting anyway.

Churchman saved his homespun best for the porchetta, one of the tenderest and most flavorful versions I’ve encountered. Stuffed with confit garlic and olives and coated in a stubble of roasted fennel seeds, the tenderloin rolls burst with brusque, evocative flavors. Flavors which a woodsy medley of oyster mushrooms, Israeli cous cous, pine nuts, and dried cherries helped reinforce.

By dessert, the kitchen’s old-meets-new motif melted into a delicious refrain, where frozen mud pies, Little Debbie-inspired snack cakes and toasted marshmallows drifted diners into a sugar-induced bliss.

The Churchmans are the sort of Millennials that the old guard is most fearful of. As the pragmatic, multitasking children of the digital age began to infiltrate the American workforce and the needle-moving reaches of society, more like them will follow.

But this couple is anything but typical, and manage the impressive trick of respecting the past while exploring the future. “You can’t forget where you came from,” says Megan. “You can’t forget growing up here or working the broiler at the Summer House when you were 16.”

If Bramble & Brine’s triumphant opening, during which it saw 130 nightly covers,[6] is any indication, those memories are still fresh.


[1] Listen:

[2] Including Eden, JAM Bistro, Planet X, and the dearly departed Venus on the Half Shell, plus Luca in Millsboro. He’s also worked at acclaimed Le Virtù in Philadelphia, whose rustic, Abruzzese-style Italian cuisine seems to have at least partially informed Churchman’s culinary playbook.

[3] Or, more likely, the Artie Shaw Pandora station.

[4] Usually made with napa cabbage.

[5] Deckle is the outer muscle that run around the outside of a center-cut ribeye steak. It takes a skilled hand to rescue from the fat and silverskin that envelops it, and the yield is typically very small—which is why the butcher usually kept it for himself.

[6] During the off-season, no less. 

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February 2017

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Hockessin Memorial Hall
606 Yorklyn Road
Hockessin, DE  19707
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Sponsor: Wilmington & Western Railroad
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Take the Lead Studio
320 Lantana Drive
Hockessin , DE  19711
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Cost: FREE

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Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
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Telephone: 302-658-9111
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Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
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Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

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Delaware Art Museum
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Cost: Free

Where:
2nd and 3rd Streets
Wilmington, DE  19801


Sponsor: Notbybreadalone Outreach Ministries
Telephone: 442-0440
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Cost: FREE

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Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-536-5395
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Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
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Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
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Cost: Members:$6 Others:$10

Where:
DuPont Environmental Education Center
1400 Delmarva Lane
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
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Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

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Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

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Delaware Museum of Natural History
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More information

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Cost: Free with Museum admission

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Delaware Art Museum
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Cost: Free

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East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
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Telephone: 302-945-3489
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Cost: frr

Where:
East Coast Garden Center
30366 Cordrey Rd
Millsboro, DE  19966
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Sponsor: East Coast Garden Center
Telephone: 302-945-3489
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The Rehoboth Beach Film Society is pleased to collaborate with the League of Women Voters® of Sussex County to present the second annual Women’s Film Series. The focus of this monthly series is...

Cost: $9

Where:
Cinema Art Theater
17701 Dartmouth Drive, #2
Lewes, DE  19958
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Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
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Cost: FREE

Where:
Nanticoke Training Center
121 S Front Street
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-536-5395
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Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9:30AM-12:00PM Fall session: Thursday, Dec 1st thru Thursday, December 15th Winter session: Tuesday, January 17th thru Thursday, March 30th   Drop in on Nature is...

Cost: see description

Where:
The Annex
501 Chandler Mill Rd
Kennett Square, PA  19348
View map »


Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
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View map »


Website »

More information

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Cost: Cost: $30 for TLC members / $40 for non-members

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Bucktoe Creek Preserve
432 Sharp Rd
Avondale, PA  19311
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Sponsor: The Land Conservancy
Telephone: 610-347-0347 ext.104
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Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library
5105 Kennett Pike
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Nanticoke Memorial Hospital
801 Middleford Road
Seaford, DE  19973
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Telephone: 302-629-6611 x2540
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Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
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Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
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Cost: $12 ADV - $15 DOS + FEES

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World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Cost: free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
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Telephone: 302-654-8638
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Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-9111
Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities at the Delaware Museum of Natural History's newest special exhibit. Undertake...

Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Between 1917 and 1944, the Society of Independent Artists (SIA) hosted annual exhibitions for its members. Famous painters and Sunday painters were able to exhibit their work in enormous open shows...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

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Delaware Art Museum
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View map »


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Cost: $12 Members, $14 Non-Members (Café lunch voucher included in price)

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Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
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Tutto Fresco
514 Philadelphia Pike
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Cost: 0.00

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Bayhealth Kent General Hospital
640 S. State Street
Private Dining Room #3
Dover, DE  19901
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Why should the boys have all the fun? Jeffrey Miller will help close our Inside the Opera Studioseries with an elegant evening that is all about the ladies. Not all sopranos are created...

Cost: $29-$59

Where:
OperaDelaware Studio
4 South Poplar St.
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Sponsor: OperaDelaware
Telephone: 302-442-7809
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Cost: $15 - $30

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110 Orchard Rd.
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Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
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Cost: $15 ADV - $17 DOS + FEES

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World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
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Cost: Free

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First State Heritage Park
121 Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd N
Dover, DE  19901
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Sponsor: First State Heritage Park
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Contact Name: Sarah Zimmerman
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Cost: Free

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121 Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd N
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Sponsor: First State Heritage Park
Telephone: 302-739-9194
Contact Name: Sarah Zimmerman
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Cost: Adults: $9 Children (3-17): $7 Seniors (60+): $8 Under 3: FREE Members: FREE

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Website »

More information

Uncover the facts, fictions, and fossils of Dinosaur Revolution as you LIVE LARGE in reptilian role-play activities. Undertake three Mesozoic Missions spanning 150 million years and mimic dinosaur...

Cost: Free with Admission

Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
Newark, DE  19807
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Telephone: 302-658-9111
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Cost:

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Kalmar Nyckel Foundation
1124 E 7th St
Wilmington, DE  19801
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Website »

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Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
View map »


Website »

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Cost: Free with Museum admission

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Delaware Art Museum
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Wilmington, DE  19806
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Cost: $30

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Various Locations
, PA


Telephone: 1-888-858-9675
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Collector Eric Holzenberg will explore W. Heath Robinson’s significant contribution to the gift book phenomenon in works he illustrated and wrote, including The Adventures of Uncle Lubin (1902)...

Cost: Free with Museum admission

Where:
Delaware Art Museum
2301 Kentmere Parkway
Wilmington, DE  19806
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The Resident Ensemble Players, Delaware’s professional acting company performing at the University of Delaware, presents The Elephant Man by Bernard Pomerance. The moving tale of John Merrick, a...

Cost: $15 - $30

Where:
Thompson Theatre, Roselle Center for the Arts
110 Orchard Rd.
Newark, DE  19716
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Sponsor: Resident Ensemble Players
Telephone: (302) 831-2204
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1977: the year Apple,Inc. incorporated, Fantasy Island premiered on ABC, Star Wars & Saturday Night Fever ruled the box office, and disco dominated the airwaves. Buy your tickets now, and see you...

Cost: $60 + FEES

Where:
World Cafe Live- Wilmington
500 North Market Street
Wilmington, DE  19801
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