Savor, The Review, Too: No Place Like Roma

Classic Italian in Dover? There's no place like Roma.



 

Roma Italian Ristorante

3 President’s Drive

Dover

678-1041

www.romadover.com

 

Roma’s osso bucco, braised veal shank stewed in a Port sauce, is served with polenta and

ratatouille.

 

 

Photograph by Thom Thompson
http://www.thomthompson.com

 

        You’ve got to give it to a restaurant that isn’t afraid of fresh garlic. Too many kitchens use it so discriminately, you’d hardly know there was any in the dish.

But garlic reigns supreme at Roma Italian Ristorante in Dover. “We use whole garlic in a lot of our dishes,” says chef Joseph Garramone, whose father, Guiseppe Garramone, founded Roma as a pizza shop in 1973. “We don’t purée it down too far. You still get the flavor, and people can pick it out if they don’t want to eat it. If you get good quality garlic, it can go a long way.”

Indeed, garlic tossed into a tangle of roasted peppers, parmesan cheese, mozzarella and greens creates a Caesar-salad effect—it bites you back. And slivers of garlic add pizzazz to the marinara sauce that accompanies fried calamari. No gloppy jarred sauce for this addictive appetizer. Give a battered ring a bath and you’ll wind up with a forkful of chopped tomatoes studded with garlic.

Roma is also unafraid of red onions—almost to a fault, when it comes to the salad. I had to pile them on a plate to reach the greens. But red onions brought a crisp sweetness to the chicken barbecue pizza, a creation of artisan dough slathered with hickory-smoked sauce and peppered with chicken chunks. Amazingly, the chicken was moist, despite being perched atop the pizza during the baking.

Many of the menu’s Italian favorites are made with Guiseppe’s recipes. Yet the menu now includes American entrées, including crab cakes and roasted salmon, as well as Southwestern and Asian dishes.

(Tip to diners: For its special seafood entrées, Roma typically gets fresh fish Fridays—and sometimes on Tuesdays or Thursdays. Since fish specials often sell out, go early.)

Admittedly, ahi tuna with wasabi-soy sauce can look out of place in the main dining room, which bears a mural of the Italian Alps and faux stained glass between the booths.

I wouldn’t get ravioli in a sushi bar, and here I crave classics like chicken Parmigiana, a juicy cutlet smothered in a red sauce. Only in good gravy houses can you find sauce with such a rich consistency and ruby hue.

Layers of eggplant, sliced amazingly thin and breaded, made eggplant Parmigiana a satisfying meat substitute. Though my lasagna suffered in the serving process—it looked less like a square and more like a casserole on my plate—the savory flavor sang, owing to the marriage of finely ground sausage and beef.

Pounded veal simmered in a lemon-butter sauce was tender but lonely. The pieces huddled in the middle of a white plate, with only a purple blossom for company. Pretty, yes. But an asparagus stalk or two would have been welcome.

About 90 percent of desserts are made in-house. Unless you are a diehard chocoholic, bypass the “big chocolate cake,” which is large enough for two (or four or five). Filled with chocolate mousse and slick with ganache, it was heart attack material without the culinary payoff.

I much preferred the cannoli, an oversized pastry shell oozing a sweet filling flecked with chocolate chips. So when it comes to Italian in Dover, nobody does it better than Roma. 

D

 

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February 2016

Delaware State University will feature the following events and exhibitions during its 2016 Black History Month celebration: Wednesday, Feb. 3 Black Lives Matter Symposium Documentary...

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1200 N DuPont Highway
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30336 Cordrey Rd
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500 McKennans Church Rd
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Cost: FREE and open to the public

Where:
Delaware State University
1200 N DuPont Highway
Dover, DE  19901
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More information

Explore some of the diverse ways that human beings have understood sex and sexuality, gender and gender diversity in this small but broad new exhibition, presented in conjunction with the 2015-2016...

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View map »


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300 S. Broad St.
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Delaware State University will feature the following events and exhibitions during its 2016 Black History Month celebration: Wednesday, Feb. 3 Black Lives Matter Symposium Documentary...

Cost: FREE and open to the public

Where:
Delaware State University
1200 N DuPont Highway
Dover, DE  19901
View map »

More information

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Cost: Free

Where:
The Station Gallery
3922 Kennett Pike
Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

Explore some of the diverse ways that human beings have understood sex and sexuality, gender and gender diversity in this small but broad new exhibition, presented in conjunction with the 2015-2016...

Cost: Free with Museum Admission.

Where:
Penn Museum
3260 South St.
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View map »


Website »

More information

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801 Middleford Rd.
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Cost: $13

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1101 Arch St.
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More information

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Cost: Free with Museum Admission.

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Penn Museum
3260 South St.
Philadelphia, PA  19104
View map »


Website »

More information

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Cost: $0-14

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View map »


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Cost: Free

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View map »


Sponsor: The Gibby Center for the Arts
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View map »


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Where:
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Where:
, DE

More information

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Cost: Free

Where:
The Station Gallery
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Greenville, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-654-8638
Website »

More information

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Where:
Delaware Museum of Natural History
4840 Kennett Pike
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View map »

More information

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Cost: $13

Where:
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1101 Arch St.
Philadelphia, PA  19104
View map »

More information

Explore some of the diverse ways that human beings have understood sex and sexuality, gender and gender diversity in this small but broad new exhibition, presented in conjunction with the 2015-2016...

Cost: Free with Museum Admission.

Where:
Penn Museum
3260 South St.
Philadelphia, PA  19104
View map »


Website »

More information

What was behind the legendary story of King Midas and his golden touch? That is the question to be answered—not with chests full of gold, but with a spectacular array of ancient artifacts,...

Cost: Adults $20; seniors $18; students (with ID) $15; children (ages 6–17) $15

Where:
Penn Museum
3260 South St.
Philadelphia, PA  19104
View map »

More information

Guests can explore three floors of exhibitions in the Visitor Center, stroll along the river through dozens of historic structures from the Industrial Revolution, and explore the gardens and...

Cost: $0-14

Where:
Hagley Museum
201 Hagley Creek Rd
Wilmington, DE  19807
View map »


Telephone: 302-658-2400
Contact Name: Meg Marcozzi
Website »

More information

Penn Museum opens the world premiere exhibition The Golden Age of King Midas—featuring ancient treasures on loan from the Republic of Turkey—with a spectacular daylong public...

Cost: $15

Where:
Penn Museum
3260 South St.
Philadelphia, PA  19104
View map »

More information

This art exhibit features fine art works and three dimensional pieces that embrace the subject “red.” Artist are free to use their imagination and creativity, so works will include...

Cost: Free

Where:
The Gibby Center for the Arts
51 W Main St.
Middletown, DE  19709
View map »


Sponsor: The Gibby Center for the Arts
Telephone: 302-449-5396
Contact Name: Caroline Zeitler
Website »

More information

For more information, please contact: Dave Ruffner ​Rehoboth Beach Film Society 107 Truitt Ave. Rehoboth Beach, DE 19971 302-645-9095, ext. 4 administrator@rehobothfilm.com...

Cost: Free

Where:
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Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
Website »

More information

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Cost: $8

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Rehoboth Beach, DE  19971
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Sponsor: Rehoboth Beach Film Society
Telephone: 302-645-9095
Contact Name: Jeri Kaplan
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"La Sylphide" shares the beautiful and romantic story of our hero, James—a young Scottish farmer who, on the eve of hid wedding, abandons his betrothed, Effie, after being...

Cost: $25

Where:
Salesanium School
1801 North Broom St.
Wilmington, DE  19802
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Sponsor: Academy of International Ballet
Telephone: 1-866-908-5666
Contact Name: Denis Gronostayskiy
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Venture back with us for an evening where we re-imagine the Victorian Industrial Age as seen through our steam-powered, futuristic goggles.  Our biggest fundraiser of the year and all proceeds...

Cost: $100-$110

Where:
Smyrna Opera House
7 West South Street
Smyrna, DE  19977
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A spoiled orphan girl is sent to live with her uncle on the Yorkshire moors and discovers renewed life, for herself and her sickly cousin, in bringing her dead aunt’s secret garden back to...

Cost: $15–$18

Where:
The Secret Garden
47 W Main St.
Middletown, DE  19709
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Sponsor: The Everett Theatre
Telephone: 302-540-8561
Contact Name: Chris Everett
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Location: St. Mark’s High School, 2501 Pike Creek Road, Wilmington Time: Registration: 11:30 a.m. Race: 12:30 p.m. Fee: $25 (until Thursday, Feb. 11), $35 after and day of event...

Where:
, DE

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Location: Beebe Healthcare’s Medical Center, 424 Savannah Road, Lewes Date: Saturday, Feb. 13 (and the second Saturday of each month) Time: 9 a.m. Fee: Free For more...

Where:
, DE

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Ditch the winter whites for a world of dazzling color at Longwood Gardens, where you can stroll through thousands of orchids in bloom. Kennett Square, www.longwoodgardens.org 

Where:
, DE

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A successful writer of Broadway thrillers is struggling to overcome a dry spell when he receives a script from a student —a potential Broadway hit. Thereafter suspense...

Where:
, DE

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Regional artists Carol Tippit Woolworth, Catherine Drabkin, Pahl Alexander Hluchan, Colleen Randall and Dan Jackson explore the concept of place—physical, emotional and spiritual—in...

Where:
, DE

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